AW15 men’s debrief: three million pictures of the geniusness of the new Undercover stuff

More from Paris men’s fashions.

Like you’ve not seen enough already.


It was one of those oh-god-I-want-everything seasons of lovely stuff.

Like this shearling zip-up with a blue collar.


Ohgod this mac with an iPhone screen so you can play stuff on your chest.


That iPhone screen.


What to have playing on your chest?

Sylvania Waters, obvs.

What else?

Images from William Blake!




The name of the collection.


This next one is my favourite piece of the entire season.

Along with the Craig Green sweater with the hole. And Grace Wales Bonner’s jeans. And those super boring Prada grey cotton twill shirts. And that Saint Laurent MA1.

An Undercover spliced MA1 with a creepy hand!

The dream.


That creepy hand.


There wouldn’t be one on the back, would there?



Let’s move over to the T-shirt rail.

Hi, T-shirts!

The End.


Not Waveing.






Don’t be scared.




Bye, Undercover!

AW15 men’s debrief: up close with the Russia/China amazingness of sir Gosha Rubchinskiy

Hey so like there have just been some menswear shows or something.

I’ve got one more report to come in the FT this weekend, and over the next few days I’m going to post some of the 5 million pix I took on my iPhone and then forgot about.

First up:


His was the first show I saw in Paris.

It was one of the best I saw in Paris.

A musing on the competitiveness between Russia and China.

Plus how those two countries are seen from outside.

I went to see the clothes up close the other day (he says trying to pretend what he did 48 hours ago is in any way current)

Do you think:

a) I didn’t bother taking any pix
b) I took 5 million


Those Russia/China flag T’s that look suspiciously like a brand from the United States of America!

(The writing is Gosha’s name in Cyrillic btw)


Those OMG sweaters that read “SPORT”.


I mean like acid washed cuffed denim jeans are obviously the greatest creation in the universe.


It turns out there was another inspiration – the look of the Nazbol movement in Russia.

This totally pricked up my ears, because I’d not long ago read Emmanuel Carrere’s amazing amazing biography of its founder, Eduard Limonov.



The inspiration was in the youthfulness of pieces like this.


OMG the coats.


And another.


And another.



Best collection inspired by Russia and China and Nazbols ever!

Backstage at Prada: up close with those super hard, super mundane, super hot looks

Taking pics during the Prada show was not the easiest thing.

The models walked sharp through tight roomsets, the lighting harsh.

Here’s one attempt.


See what I mean?

Let’s go backstage.

Some models who had yet to get changed.


This model was eating – I said don’t worry, I’m only interested in the clothes.


Some looks on the board.

I’m a sucker for a cropped Prada jacket.


That WTF single colour plaid coat.

(For those playing catch-up, the collection was billed as “the first part of the autumn/winter 2015 show”, mixing men’s and women’s).


The seating plan with directions for the models.

It looks like the blueprints for the Starship Enterprise or something.


Most of the models are changed now.

Let’s go find the clothes on the rail.

That super mundane double-breasted jacket.

(Super mundane is obviously the biggest compliment)


Ohmygod that nylon shirt, with its wide wide sleeves.


A super bad photo of an amazingly mundane knit T.


That camel coat.


The revelation were the work shirts.

These were worn underneath looks.

As far as I can remember, they weren’t highlighted in the show.

They should have been.


Another in camel.


Some sneakers in a bodybag.


I’ve written my first thoughts already for (search my name from the homepage, but sorry, it’s behind a paywall).

I’ll say more in Saturday’s paper.

But essentially, I am very, very pro.

And get more pro the more I think about it.

The end.

(Except obvs I’ll post a million more pics from tomorrow’s re-see)