Meadham Kirchhoff had some amazing menswear in their show. The looks. Upside-down

At their show yesterday, Meadham Kirchhoff sent out ten menswear looks.

I wasn’t at the show – I was on my way to Milan – but they deserve closer inspection.

Here’s the first look.

!!!!UPSIDE-DOWN PICTURE ALERT!!!!

+++AS WITH ALL CATWALK PHOTOGRAPHY, I TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN+++

***SO YOU CAN SEE THROUGH THE RECOGNISABLE IMAGE TO SEE THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES***

image

(Pic is a shonky screengrab from style.com btw)

Some words on that vest.

Fag. Arse bandit. Queer. Batty boy.

Many are obscured by the central figure, but you can see “Lifter”, probably with “Shirt” before it, “Fudge”, probably with “Packer” after it.

Next look.

image

I mean amazing.

just to see a pair of specs on the catwalk.

He looks so chic, and then you see what he has on is so sheer.

Obsessed with those cut-out holes.

Next look.

image

It’s lovely to see the Meadham Kirchhoff menswear as a companion to its women’s, a part of its defiant whole.

Ben and Ed live near me.

Their studio is not that far away.

We’re in an area where gentrification bring with it a certain anodyne look.

All around, blocks of flats are being built, clad in billboards displaying the prospective anodyne lifestyle of its future gentrifying inhabitants.

It’s a look of niceness and acceptability that is too all too prevalent at London Fashion Week.

The work at Meadham Kirchhoff seemed in gleeful defiance of this.

Defiant with the rude power of individuality.

Another look.

image

Just glorious.

That coat.

And the circular gather on those trousers.

Another look.

image

Simple but also not.

The cut of the vest.

The lingerie clasps.

THOSE BOOTS.

I’m running out of time.

Another look.

image

Cute skirt.

More.

image

That coat.

That wonky shirt, looks like two different cloths.

That underwear!

More.

image

Those tension causing straps on the trench.

Those trousers!

Aaargh I’m late.

Quick.

image

AMAZING.

Fairly sure that’s an open-fronted body.

One more.

image

The end.

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: It the Fashion East show today. Here’s new stuff by their alumni!

Hey so it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY.

As in it’s a Tuesday.

And you can buy some new stuff.

If you wanted.

OMG in like no seconds at all it’s the FASHION EAST show!

(It’s on at 1pm UK time, and you can watch it if you click here etcetc)

Let’s look at some NEW STUFF! You can buy from their alumni! On a Tuesday! Or any other day!

(Obviously by their alumni, I’m talking about those that have been part of it’s MAN show with Topman, or the Fashion East Installations. Obvs)

Their current crop first.

!!!LIAM HODGES!!!

This is the stuff that was in his Fashion East Installations presentation back in January.

The one with Stonehenge made from a stack of speakers.

And gaffer tape on the floor.

A knit hoodie.

liam_hodges_half_knit_hood_1_of_4

It’s £405 at Primitive London, click here etcetc.

Or his “stoned circle” baseball top.

liam_hodges_stoned_circle_baseball_tshirt_1_of_4

It’s £175, click here etcetc.

!!!!NICOMEDE TALAVERA!!!

Again, his work from the Fashion East Installations back  in January (he made his MAN debut with SS15 in June).

This is a wool zip-up with leather applique.

Super gorge.

tal0118003blk_08_large

It’s £690 over at LN-CC, click here etcetc.

!!!!!BOBBY ABLEY!!!!!

He who had the most extraordinary season with his SS15 stuff.

As in, the Ursula sweatshirt that everyone wants.

Everyone.

Here’s a sweatshirt from his AW14 collection, over at Wildstyle in LA.

IMG_9514_copy__31976.1407854248.1280.1280

It’s $720, click here etcetc

ALUMNI!!!!

!!!!!AAAASSTTTRIDDDDD ANDDEERRRRSEEEEENNNN!!!!!!

Obviously her lace T-shirt.

Which I have already.

IMG_8761

You can get it at £294 at Luisa Via Roma.

(Obvs you can go get Astrid’s stuff at Machine A in London, but they don’t sell stuff online).

!!!!!JAMES LONG!!!!!!

Here’s one of his bubble front sweatshirts.

026523770003_1

It’s £330 at the glamorous Browns, click here etcetcetc

!!!!!AGI & SAM!!!!

Their AW14 collection was so amazing.

Here’s the Watu-Nguvu sweatshirt.

ME24SS870002BKM_1_zoom

It’s only £120, click here etcetcetc

!!!!CRAIG GREEN!!!

Here’s one of his hand-painted T-shirts.

_dsc7028_copy

It’s £270, click here etcetc

!!!!!!CHRISTOPHER SHANNON!!!!!!

I mean obviously the already much-worn and much-loved fag packet sweater.

shannon1

You can get it at VFiles for $430 which is about £265, click here etcetc.

OK THAT’S IT.

GOTTA GO.

GOOD LUCK FASHION EAST PEOPLE!

What happens when a garment goes from being admired to worn? Case in point: Craig Green

When it comes to fashion shows, I have a general rule: if I don’t need to be there, I don’t go.

Occasionally I’ll break it, but it’s an attempt at retaining some form of sanity and distance.

If you go to too many without purpose, just to spectate, you can begin to feel its your birthright.

It’s not.

So while there’s newness at the womenswear catwalks, I’ve been thinking about clothing that is already worn.

The life of garments long after they appear at shows.

As the weather has turned, I’ve been grabbing jackets, pretty much without thinking.

To my surprise, and pleasure, the jacket I’ve been grabbing most is this hand-painted canvas piece by Craig Green.

It’s from the current autumn/winter 15 season, which means we first saw it a long, long time ago – back in January.

IMG_8751

It’s such a spectacle, I hadn’t considered what it would be like to wear it.

Or how I would even feel about wearing it in the first place.

Now I just throw it on.

It doesn’t happen with all the pieces I’ve bought from him.

But there’s usually at least one a season that crosses over into perpetual wear – last season it was the tie-dye jumper.

Right now, it’s this canvas jacket.

Here’s me the other weekend presenting my Iron Age pasta necklace (actually a buttonhole) to the Discerning Eye at the filming of Marvin Gaye Chetwynd’s forthcoming work at Studio Voltaire.

IMG_8514

That evening, I ended up having an accidental night out in Clapham.

Outside Kaz-Bar, some young lad was saying he’d never be able to get away with something like that.

So I got him to try it on.

He was pleased as punch.

I’ll cover his face – he said he had a girlfriend.

(I didn’t cop off with him or anything, but you know).

(That’s the pasta buttonhole hanging off the jacket, btw).

(And the blacked out eye teddies are from Undercover’s Madstamp app).

IMG_8748

A couple of days later I wore the jacket to The Gentlewoman launch at the Cafe Royal.

I went along with Princess Julia.

Here we are as coverstars.

(She’s in head-to-toe Sibling).

Cover_JuliaCharlie

(pic is by George Harvey btw)

A couple of days after I was wearing it for meetings.

It has gone beyond a-piece-I-need-to-think-about-wearing to that-piece-I-know-I’ll-love-to-have-on.

Not necessarily an easy leap.

It joins a couple of other jackets I’ve been enjoying wearing these past couple of weeks.

If it looks like rain, I’ll put on this Prada zip-up I got at DSM NY earlier in the year.

IMG_8753

(I’ve actually got no idea if it’s waterproof or not, but still).

And also this old denim parka from Cosmic Wonder.

It needs a wash, sorry.

IMG_8754

The last time I wore it was on 30th August 2011.

I know this because I found in its pocket the minutes for the meeting at the British Fashion Council, where it was discussed whether to launch a separate menswear schedule – what became known as London Collections: Men.

Its back.

The picture hasn’t flipped – the words are back-to-front.

IMG_8755

I like it when I get into cycles of clothing.

It helps when the weather is like a holding pattern, always the same.

I’m wearing those Carhartt denim shorts again today, the ones I wrote about last week.

I just pick them up and put them on.

A sweater, like that John Smedley, or a Christopher Shannon sweatshirt.

One of these jackets.

And on my feet, my very nicely aged Prada trainers, the ones I’ve been wearing non-stop since March.

IMG_8760

What it means to wear clothing is often illusive.

If a garment is worn often, and becomes part of our own narrative about ourselves, then some meaning can come.

Here, the meaning of the Craig Green may just be how decoration can become a normality.

I’m popping out now.

Craig Green jacket on.

The amazing James Davison is illustrating the shows for me. First up: Marc By Marc Jacobs

James Davison is an amazing, amazing illustrative artist.

His work has pout and poise and clarity. His characters are pumped up and idealised. His line is bold and gleeful.

For the next month or so, he’s going to be doing illustrations from the Spring/Summer 2015 womenswear shows for me, as and when.

Making them into his own world.

First up, a couple from Marc By Marc Jacobs.

I do believe this is Look 3.

MBMJS15LK3 copy

Gorge!

Here’s that look in real life.

!!!!UPSIDE DOWN PHOTO ALERT!!!

****AS ALWAYS, I TURN CATWALK IMAGES UPSIDE DOWN***

+++SO YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE RECOGNISABLE IMAGE TO SEE THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES+++

00030h_20140910022507

And Look 4…

Screen Shot 2014-09-11 at 17.45.45

Major…

Upside down reality…

00040h_20140910022559

AMAZING!

James will be doing more as the days go on.

And TONIGHT, i.e. Thursday September 11th 2014, James is hosting late supper at Hoi Polloi.

He’s created their first new monthly menu.

He’s called it CLOBBER.

A fashion magazine with a difference.

James describes it as “Vogue meets Viz with a touch of the Daily Sport”.

JOLLY!

Tonight from 10pm, click here for the fancy Facebook page thingy…

SO EXCITED FOR THE NEXT MONTH OF JAMES DAVISON-NESS…

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: purposefully boring clothes to buy on a boring Tuesday. If you want

Hey it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY.

As in, it’s a Tuesday and it’s a day you can buy some new stuff. If you want.

This week I’ve super obsessed with boring clothes.

Like my super boring John Smedley crew neck extra fine Merino wool sweater.

I did just type those words.

It’s so boring.

And looks SO GOOD with my dirty old Carhartt carpenters shorts.

Can I even be bothered to take a photo of it?

So boring.

IMG_8650

OBSESSED.

Said super boring Smedley with said Carhartt carpenter’s shorts.

IMG_8653

I got mine at Liberty a year or so ago, I’m guessing it might be this one?

aw13john068000331-navyIf it is the same one, it costs £120, click here etcetc

I was at a dinner last week wearing a razzier sweater.

The person sitting next to me asked about it.

I said who it was buy.

Then they said, you knew that if you wore that, people would ask you about it.

Actually I hadn’t thought that.

I wanted to show off this designer’s work.

But I suppose it was also true.

And when you wear something like the John Smedley sweater, no-one ever asks you about what you’re wearing.

Is that the mission?

Let’s look for more super boring clothes on this BUY STUFF TUESDAY.

The website-with-the-same-surname-as-me!

OHMYGOD the new seasons stuff by THE ELDER STATESMAN!!!

Look at this cashmere sweater.

385197_mrp_in_xl

I mean, I pass out.

SO BORING AND AMAZING.

It’s £755, click here etcetc.

What else by The Elder Statesman?

OHMYGOD this textured cashmere knit.

457967_mrp_in_xl

It’s £630, click here etcetc.

I mean, he has got some stuff that isn’t boring.

Are we allowed to look at non-boring stuff on this BUY STUFF TUESDAY Boring Special?

Go on, quickly.

OHMYGOD THIS CASHMERE DIP-DYED SWEATER!!!

415774_mrp_in_xl

SO NOT BORING!

It’s £1050, click here etcetc.

And OMG BLANKETS.

493669_mrp_in_xl

Totally worth every penny at um oh £5300 eeeeek, click here etcetc.

Apologies.

Back to boring.

Um.

Look at this boring Patagonia sweater.

441709_mrp_in_xl

Isn’t Patagonia the thing we talk about when we talk about N*rmc*r*?

So boring.

Amazing.

It’s £110, click here etcetc.

Let’s go somewhere else.

OMG look at this super boring Gucci rollneck cashmere sweater over on Matches or matchesfashion.com or whatever it is wear meant to call it.

MEH7CN860010GRY_1_zoom

SO BORING.

i.e. AMAZING.

It’s £485. Click here etcetc.

Hey it’s BUY STUFF TUESDAY.

We have to have a Rick Owens balaclava, right?

I mean it’s tradition.

Let’s try and find a boring i.e. amazing one.

Here!

MERIHA860002BLK_2_zoomIt’s “only” £244, click here etcetc.

Who else is boring?

OMG Topman has the most amazing boring off-white waffle texture top!

So boring, we shall only see it from the back.

37F30JOFF_2_large

It’s £26, click here etcetc.

What else?

This “moss stitch” sweater.

“Moss stitch” being new to me.

So boring i.e. amazing we’ll only see it close up.

81T70IBRG_4_large

Click here etcetc.

Aaaah being boring.

Such a nice way to be.

Boring.

Wait.

What’s this though?

A new billboard’s gone up in that prime location i.e. under the railway bridge at the end of the Hackney Road.

Ohgod.

IMG_8647

“DRESS NORMAL”.

!!!!!!!ARRRGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Is that an suggestion or a threat?

AAARRRRRRGGHHHHHHHH.

Quick.

I NEED TO LOOK AT SOME RAZZY STUFF.

Jeremy Scott.

IMG_1303

AMAZING.

It’s $455 in at VFiles.

Walter Van Bierendonck.

Poncho.

Yes.

IMG_1176

It’s $550, also at VFiles.

Undercover.

469068_mrp_in_xl

£120 at the-website-with-the-same-name-as-me.

Gosha Rubchinskiy.

gsh2109cmb_01

Patchwork fake fur coat at Oki-ni for £400.

OK.

I think I’m better now.

Wait.

But what if not dressing normal is actually now dressing normal?

AARRRGHHHHH!

I mean like ohgod.

And with that conundrum we shall take our leave.

If I liked that song Being Boring I’d play it, but I don’t so I won’t.

THE BOREDOMS!!!!

If I could be anywhere right now it would be Tokyo for the 25th anniversary of Undercover

Tonight in Tokyo is a party for the 25th anniversary of Undercover.

I’m typing these words at 10.20am in London.

In Tokyo it’s 6.20pm.

The party starts at 10pm.

Then tomorrow at the Parco Museum opens TGRAPHICS.

An exhibition of Jun Takahashi’s T-shirts from 1990-2014.

T-shirts like this one.

1994_U

It’s from 1994.

And this one.

From 1992.

1992_anachy is the key

It also feature’s Jun’s drawings and sketches.

Here’s one from 1992.

1992_TSP

Tokyo Sex Pistols was the covers band that Jun was in.

SO AMAZING.

Click here for more on the show, and go see if you’re in Japan.

Weird how few Undercover shows are online.

I’m fairly sure this was the first Undercover show I saw – AW03, of which I can only find this style.com review.

And I have such fond memories of SS04, which had models come out in pairs, one wearing an outfit that was like a warped stretched version of the other.

The invite was two plectrums. One normal, the other melted.

I still have it somewhere.

But anyway.

I’m not in Tokyo.

I’m in London.

So I’ll spend all day on the new Undercover app Madstamp.

It’s free on the appstore thingy.

Here’s a photo of me from my 27th birthday or something that’s been Madstamp-ed.

stamp1

MODERN!

David Zwirner has a new show by little known artist Jack Bilbo. It’s amazing. Some pics

David Zwirner in London has just opened a show by the little known artist Jack Bilbo.

It’s totally amazing.

Bilbo was born in Berlin in 1907, fleeing the Nazis in the 30s and settling in London in 1936.

Self taught, his work is of humour, sex and morality.

Here’s one of his works.

bilb1

It reads “I don’t like private capitalism, I don’t like state capitalism – I do like my own capitalism.”

Another work, this one from the ’40s.

IMG_8449

It reads “Anything to be original”, say the Boheemohomians (The He-Shees)

Another work.

It reads: “Death knows no frontiers, races, classes, or religions – Death is impartial – why not life?”

IMG_8450

Another.

IMG_8462

It reads: “The State is a heartless machine, yet it holds your heart in its destructive hands. The state itself has neither heart nor conscience, not sense of humour.”

Another.

IMG_8464

It reads: “Five politicians trying to get the vote of the village idiot”.

Another.

IMG_8458

“A stroke of the pen, a rubber stamp – decide who shall be homeless.”

The curator Rodolphe von Hoffmannsthal says that he first became aware of Bilbo’s work last November, when the amazing Aaron Angell exhibited his work alongside Bilbo in Glasgow at SWG3.

Apparently Bilbo was into spanking.

Hence the obsession with women’s backsides.

IMG_8452

It’s called “The Bottom-Face”.

And then this…

IMG_8453

It’s called “Afternoon In The Garden”.

And this…

IMG_8455

“Close neighbours who cannot meet, even when they pass in the street”.

Or this…

IMG_8454

“Women expecting triplets, returning home from the cinema”.

There are paintings too.

Here’s a self-portrait.

IMG_8451

I love this portrait.

IMG_8457

During the Blitz, Bilbo opened The Modern Art Gallery in St James’s.

There he showed pieces by Picasso and Kurt Schwitters alongside his own work.

A book that he published.

IMG_8456

Bilbo once self-published his autobiography.

Jack by Jack Bilbo.

IMG_8477

There’s a copy of it by the front desk that you can flick through.

The Modern Art Gallery.

IMG_8468

The beginning of a chapter on Decadence And Culture.

IMG_8472

One of the sculptures he made in Weybridge, where he moved after the war.

Among the specs are its weight: 44,000 lbs.

IMG_8475

The End.

IMG_8474

Such an amazing show.

David Zwirner’s just up the road from Dover Street Market.

Click here for the details and stuff.

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: here’s some new stuff that you can buy. On a Tuesday. Or whenever

OMG it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY!

As in it’s a Tuesday and there’s some new stuff around and you can buy it if you want.

OMG MARTINE ROSE AT V-FILES…

Can we talk about Martine Rose at V-Files?

I mean, look at these jeans.

IMG_1207

LOOK AT THOSE JEANS.

The dream.

And OMG.

LOOK AT THEIR INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION BELT THINGY.

IMG_1249

It’s a marvel of the modern world.

That internal belt thingy is what keeps them up.

They’re $425, which by my highly scientific Google currency converter is right now this second £257.14

CLICK HERE ETCETCETC

And also the words “Camo” and “Wide” and “Leg” and “Trouser” deserve some attention when put together, no?

Martine’s CAMO WIDE LEG TROUSERS!!!

IMG_1214

These are $495, which works out right now this second as £299.34

CLICK HERE ETCETC AND SCROLL DOWN A BIT

Hey shall we put something on while we’re looking at stuff?

Here’s that Sing Like A Bird by that Marco Shuttle, who played at our CHAPTER 10 hoo-ha the other weekend.

OK what else?

What about the-website-with-the-same-surname-as-me?

OMG Junya Watanabe…

450396_mrp_in_xl

It’s called a panelled quilted nylon coat, as you do.

It’s £885, click here etcetcetc

Ooh this Aspesi padded gilet thingy’s razzy too.

441635_mrp_in_xl

It’s “only” £240, click here etcetc.

OK what else.

OMG RICHARD NICOLL’S AMAZING DISCREET SWEATERSHIRT…

It’s in at Matches or matchesfashion.com or whatever we’re meant to call it.

IT IS AMAZING.

Screen Shot 2014-09-02 at 15.14.15

Ohgod.

One of the pieces of the season.

If you can be bothered to call it a season anymore.

This is the autumn/winter 2014 season! Ha!

Anyway, whatever.

THE SWEATSHIRT IS SO GOOD.

Click here etcetc

What else?

I mean, you’ve all already got your cashmere balaclava nun’s habit from Rick Owens, right?

RR14F2679WS09_4

It’s £796, click here etcetc

I have actually already got my new Rick Owens bodybag – I went for the jersey option, as you do.

Here’s a side view, just to confirm it’s rear entry zip status.

DU14F4574F09

CONFIRMED: it has a rear entry zip facility.

Relief.

It’s £476 on Rick’s online thingy – click here etcetc – I bought mine at his South Audley Street store in London.

What else?

!!!!SOCKS!!!!

OMG Albam have introduced their own socks.

THEY ARE AMAZING.

They’re called Marl socks, and are made for Albam by a “family run business in the Midlands”.

They come in red…

xl_14552

In navy.

xl_14564

In black.

xl_14557

Etcetc.

You get the drill.

They’re £12 each.

SO AMAZING.

I’m in my super short Lanvin/Acne shorts today because it’s so warm in London, but have shifted from sandals back to trainers.

And I’m really enjoying having a chunky sock on display.

My current ones are American Apparel.

But very much looking forward to getting some pairs of these.

click here etcetc

Is that enough new stuff for this NEW STUFF TUESDAY?

I do believe that it is.

It’s almost the 10th anniversary of Dover Street Market. A peek at their birthday rejig

It’s about to be the tenth anniversary of Dover Street Market in London.

To celebrate, the store’s had a rejig, and introduced some limited edition pieces.

On the second floor, there’s the first ever area dedicated to Paul Harnden Shoemakers.

It was pandemonium there, as many garments on the table waiting to be tried on than on the rail.

A limited edition badge.

DSM1

A limited edition bag.

DSM3

One of Paul’s cute squished hats.

DSM4

On the wall are photos of Paul’s home in Brighton, where he makes all of his clothes.

DSM5

The kitchen.

DSM6

It’s been a long while since I’ve seen Paul – I went to his house once to interview him for GQ Style a million years ago.

Maybe I should go see him again.

What else?

On the same floor, the return of WALTER VAN BIERENDONCK.

Always a designer worthy of capitals.

Some shelves of his stuff.

DSM7

Those sneakers with added eyeballs.

DSM8

A cropped and strapped jacket on a rail nearby.

DSM10

Up the corner on the second floor is this creation.

I think it’s a changing room.

DSM11

Close up.

DSM12

Down in the basement is a rail of limited edition pieces by Palace.

They were going fast.

This is um me trying on an inside-out long-sleeve T.

The logo on the back is upside-down.

DSM2

The changing room in which that headless selfie was taken.

DSM15

Nearby is a limited edition run of tie-dye jersey pieces by Craig Green.

OBVIOUSLY AMAZING.

DSM14

 

And then up the far corner is the phenomenal world of the Good Design Shop.

With its homewares straight from Japan.

DSM13

Literally where everyone will be getting their Christmas presents from this year, whether they want a folding stool or not.

And there’s twelve billion other things.

All very jolly indeed.

JOLLY!