Hey so it’s supposedly spring.
Except all I can think about is black.
The other week I got sent a big book of its autumn/winter 2015 collection.
I guess it’s meant to be a lookbook: the thing stylists or their assistants chose looks from for shoots, before style.com made things easier.
Most lookbooks I get sent are immediately recycled, but this one’s a keeper.
Those short-sleeved black shirts.
The black nylon.
Yeah I know the whole look isn’t black but this little jacket is me.
Black has been on my mind since the menswear shows finished at the end of January.
A couple of weeks later, there was the most arresting menswear image.
A group of men dressed in black, on stage with Kanye West at the Brit Awards.
Just realised the guy on the left is wearing Astrid Andersen.
The performance in full.
I wanted to write about it at the time but was busy with womenswear.
And the Madonna thing kind of overshadowed it.
But it’s still on my mind.
It was such a powerful, simple, loaded message.
It energises clothing.
On stage with Kanye that evening was Skepta.
Skepta talks about wearing black in Shutdown, currently playlisted on Radio 1 , the words going into mass ears.
“Fashion week and it’s shutdown
Went to the show sitting in the front row
In the black tracksuit and it’s shutdown.”
Later on is a female voice, a guess a parody, saying the following:
“A bunch of young men all dressed in black dancing extremely aggressively on stage, it made me feel so intimidated and it’s not what I expect to see on prime time TV”
I guess the show he was talking about was Nasir Mazhar, who he’s collaborated with in the past.
A black look from Nasir’s show.
***UPSIDE DOWN PICTURE ALERT****
+++I ALWAYS TURN CATWALK PHOTOS UPSIDE DOWN+++
^^^SO YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE RECOGNISABLE IMAGE TO SEE THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES^^^
Black at Astrid Andersen, again AW15.
It’s not weird to be looking at autumn/winter already, because the first deliveries will be arriving in June.
That’s like nine weeks away or something.
Black at Craig Green.
OK so yeah, it’s probably the case that if you looked at any seasons shows, you could cherry pick bits of black.
That’s totally the case with Bottega Veneta, which was all pink and purple and orange.
And also black.
Guess which I’ve picked out?
Usually the thinking is that colour outfits are the pop that keep people interested.
For me it was the black.
I’ve been wearing black Bottega Veneta sweatshirt and dancer pants obsessively the past few weeks.
Along with black Dries Van Noten dancer pants.
More autumn/winter black menswear.
The black version of the Rick Owens dick dress.
Saint Laurent is the last menswear show of the European season.
And it was dominated by black.
This is such a covetable look.
Especially with the strength of that shoulder.
It was fascinating to me how this is very much a menswear thing.
The womenswear AW15 shows were the usual over-embellishment and fuss.
I feel it has legs.
Hey if you’ve not made it to the Whitechapel’s show Adventures Of The Black Square, you HAVE to go before it shuts on Easter Monday.
It’s such an extraordinary exhibition.
Using Malevich as a starting point to study 100 years of abstraction in art.
Here’s his Black Quadrilateral, undated.
Metaesquema 464 by Hélio Oiticica.
Cogito, ergo sum by Rosemarie Trockel.
So so good.
Click here for more info etcetc.
What am I wearing at the moment?
Peach trackpants by Gosha.