Marvin Gaye Chetwynd has nearly finished her next film. Come on! Help finance it!

The unfeasibly incredible Marvin Gaye Chetwynd has nearly finished her next film.

It’s a Studio Voltaire commission, which has already had funding from the Arts Council and the Australia Council of the Arts.

And now she just needs a little bit of help to get it finished.

The new film is called Hermitos Children 2, a follow-up to the original that you can watch here.

Studio Voltaire have launched a Kickstarter to raise the final £5000.

In order to finish the work, so it can premier at Studio Voltaire this October.

Marvin Gaye has made a film about the work.

OMG DONATE!

Click here to get to the Kickstarter page thingy.

There are different levels of reward, including a starring role in the film itself.

Aaaah Marvin Gaye Chetwynd.

SO AMAZING.

She was nominated for the Turner Prize the other year.

Here’s a thing I wrote about it at the time.

And who doesn’t love a bug’s ass?

Here’s me crawling into one of her bug’s asses at her New Museum show the other year.

At least, I think it’s an ass.

It’s an ass, right?

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DONATE DONATE DONATE!

Fanatically, obsessively up close with the amazingness at Comme, Junya, Comme SHIRT, Gosha

Each menswear shows, I always make sure I go visit the Comme des Garçons showroom for a good root around.

This season was one of those times that makes you feel it’s an honour to be able to see these shows.

Here’s the work of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.

One of the pieces I want most out of the whole season.

The outer layer.

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Obsessed.

Comme was fascinating to me.

It was clear from the first look that it was anti-war, its aim to ridicule military through clothing.

A few days before it, I’d written about the use of naval and military at the Gucci for the FT.

There it had been literal, with the garment making no connection to an actual Gucci customer.

As I wrote it, I wondered: how will I feel if other designers use military?

At Comme, it was there with purpose and power.

It was about the futility of war, and the futility of messages that clothing sends out.

Even the futility of clothing itself.

On the catwalk there were many interventions in the cloth, with bands of leopard print and such cut and disrupting the formality of the garment.

They also had ones untouched.

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Another.

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One more.

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Then there were the pieces daubed with slogans.

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Another.

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The back of another.

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The slogans on a T-shirt.

“Now I don’t know where we are” is apparently from a WWI poem.

I’m trying to find which one – I’ll update.

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What it says on its side.

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Those shoes.

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Another view.

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So good.

Hey lets go across the courtyard and upstairs to look at Junya.

In the latest of a series of highly professional photographs taken on my iPhone, here’s a pair of jeans in collaboration with Levi’s, made from martial arts cloth.

That in real life are way more blue than they look here.

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A close-up of that cloth.

Which looks way more blue in real life etcetc.

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A photo of me on day 15 of the menswear trek looking full of the joys of spring.

I’m wearing my favourite piece from the collection, and boy don’t I look happy about it.

The letters spell out “MAN” btw.

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Let’s move on.

The collection was all about Japanese traditions.

Here’s a patchwork jacket that uses traditional stitching.

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This jacket is made from a fabric used for Japanese village uniforms – when there’s a festival, everyone in the village wears jackets from this cloth with the village symbol on the back.

Here’s the front.

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The symbol on the back.

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I loved this print.

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Close up with a woven.

Confession: I can’t remember what garment this was from.

Just thought the cloth was lush.

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OK let’s go downstairs to Comme des Garçons SHIRT.

One of the shirts.

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AMAZING!

Close up with the Scooby Doo writing.

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Ohgod shall we just watch Scooby Doo?

AARRGHGHH THERE’S NO SCOOBY DOO ON YOUTUBE!!!

Boring.

Anyway.

Another shirt.

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I love how this next one goes to a point at the hem.

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So gorge.

Another.

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Ohgod I haven’t got long.

Let’s go through to Gosha.

WAIT THOUGH.

What’s that sweater in Comme SHIRT?

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OHGOD.

Close up with that trim.

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Right.

GOSHA.

Guess what this T says?

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The collection was inspired by thoughts of Arktida, an old island that became part of the Russian landmass before anything became anything.

That logo says Arktida in Cyrillic.

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Another that says Arktida.

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The colours at Gosha were so lush.

Loved this eggy yellow.

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TRACKPANTS.

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Here’s the back of one of those amazing jackets I posted about back three million years ago when the Paris shows started.

With squares of different cloth that are like some silent semaphore.

Obviously the most amazingly professional photo too.

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DENIM.

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DENIM SHORTS.

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OK we’ve got to go.

SO AMAZING.

Oh look.

I’ve found the Scooby Doo Where Are You theme song.

Will that do?

It’ll have to.

Raf Simons was about personal memory, gratitude, sci-fi and horror. Some close-ups

On Sunday in Paris, I went to Raf Simons showroom for a close-up look at his spring/summer 2015 collection.

Here’s the key shirt.

The mannequin looks a bit, um, female.

But it’s for men.

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The logo is like a new version of the one for the new Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby collection.

The photo is of Raf wearing a T-shirt made by Olivier Rizzo – in his style.com review, Tim Blanks recounts the moment Raf gave it back to Olivier backstage.

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From it you get the sense of the whole collection.

A continuation of the work started with Ruby, along with personal memory and gratitude.

Some of it explained, some left to be opaque.

The result is powerful.

Raf’s father was in the military, which led to the sailor’s flaps on the backs of jackets.

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The explosion is of an oil rig.

The astronaut is to stand for isolation.

Raf loves sci-fi, hence the spaceship.

Interesting that the knits are a continuation of those from Simons/Ruby.

The back of another jacket.

The Japanese script reads “Raf Simons”.

It is to thank Japanese retailers and customers for supporting him in his early years.

As well as sci-fi, Raf also loves horror.

The shark fin: from Jaws.

The image of Mount Fuji is by Hokusai.

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Many of the pieces include photos of his parents.

Here’s an image of his father with a gun, his mother by his side.

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On the back of many of the garments are images of rollercoasters.

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That rollercoaster in close-up.

Beneath it is an oil-rig, to represent environmental destruction.

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A sweet photo of his parents on the front of a white shirt.

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OHMYGOD JUMPSUIT.

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A handy front zip.

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An amazing shark fin T-shirt, with the words NO NO.

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Another image of his parents on the back of a jacket flap.

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Close-up.

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A print made up from tiny planes.

Apologies for the um blur.

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A vest beaded in India with a Hokusai image.

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Another Hokusai vest.

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Close-up with the beading.

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This image is of Raf backstage at his Black Palms collection from spring/summer 1998.

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A video of Black Palms.

The illustrations that look Japanese were actually designed fresh at Raf’s studio in Antwerp.

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A spooky rubber ring.

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Here’s the back of a sleeveless jacket.

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The front, FYI.

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I love this combination of a rollercoaster with a scene from Jaws.

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Close-up.

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Accessories.

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The light-up trainers are in collaboration with Adidas.

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There’s also these Stan Smiths.

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One tongue.

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The other.

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Amazing.

Gosha Rubchinskiy just showed for the first time in Paris. It was amazing. Here’s some looks

Gosha Rubchinskiy just showed for the first time in Paris.

He’s had shows in Moscow a few years ago, but this was his debut on the international show schedule.

It was amazing – a concise, tight, involved display of his sub-currents and codes.

Here are some of my amazingly professional images.

Trackpants were cut lean to the body and worn high.

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Squares were a repeat throughout.

Here’s a patchworked shirt.

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Then jackets and coats came out, with a grid of squares at the back.

Sometimes the squares small and near the hem, other times taking over the whole back.

The squares of fake fur, camo and plastics.

They were like some unspoken semaphore.

You can just make them out in this pic.

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The colours were lush, especially this eggy yellow.

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The denim pieces were ace – I didn’t get a shot of the denim cargo pants, but here’s a sleeveless jacket.

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OMG monster!

Or, like, an alien.

One of the two.

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The trackpants have Gosha’s name in Russian down the right leg below the knee.

You can see the squares on the back too.

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Afterwards, Gosha was beaming.

Someone asked if they could interview him.

All he could say was, “Hello from Russia!”, and then he ran backstage.

Here are some close-ups.

Many of the garments had a triangular symbol on them.

It reads “Arctida” in Cyrillic, which is apparently an island which used to be part of Russia, but which no longer exists.

It was the theme of the collection.

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Those amazing squares.

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An illustration – I’ll find out from Gosha who did it for him – he always collaborates with young Russian artists.

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A totally lush pink top.

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And… That monster. Or alien.

Whichever, it’s AMAZING.

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SO GOOD.

I’ll have more to say about it on FT.com tomorrow, but wanted to post these here now.

But what a relief to come from Milan to Paris, a city that allows young people from around the world to come and express themselves.

For everything menswear spring/summer 2015, here’s where to go…

Hey so menswear’s got going for spring/summer 2015.

It’s the London Collections right now.

Then we go to Milan, then Paris.

For immediate stuff from me, head over to Instagram – I’m on @thecharlieporter

Then for daily stuff, I’m posting at FT.com - easiest way to find the pieces is by putting my name in the search box.

OMG Werk by Radio Slave!!!!

It was an honour to choose the music for last night’s David Collins book party. Here’s each song, and why

Last night in London was the party to celebrate ABCDCS, the book about David Collins Studio.

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David was the most extraordinary architect and interior designer, who died suddenly and shockingly last year.

He was a dear friend, a man who lived west but loved east.

He was a great fan of the Joiners Arms, and I was asked to create a playlist for the event.

It was a total pleasure, revisiting the records we used to play at weekly night I did there with friends from 2008-2012, called Macho City.

It was so lovely to choose these records thinking of David, and his attitude to life.

Each record is about love, the celebration of life, friendship, idealism.

Any record that was sad would not be played.

David had been working on the book before his death.

It features an A-Z of his passions and themes. M is for Music, and in it he talks of “the divine days of disco”.

It was clear the way to go with the playlist.

Here, via the world of YouTube, is every song played, in specific order.

First, Claudja Barry.

Love For The Sake Of Love.

For obvious reasons.

Next, I’d wanted to play Arthur Russell, but the version I’d got was glitchy.

And I didn’t want glitchiness.

But here it is, non glitchy.

Such a lovely song about the way men can be together.

Next, self explanatory, is Happy Man by Chic.

The next record is one of the most gorgeous songs that I know.

Hot Butterfly by Bionic Boogie (the below clip says it’s Gregg Diamond, who was also Bionic Boogie).

The vocal is by Luther Vandross, before he found fame on his own.

It is glorious.

I put this song on next because it was Amanda Lear and she’s obviously amazing.

Then I realised that this song, Alphabet, fits so well with the title of the book – ABCDCS.

This next song is an absolute favourite of mine.

Daft, sunny, blissful, ridiculous.

Forever Lovers by the Italian Boys.

Next is a record we used to love playing at the Joiners Arms.

I Love Men by Eartha Kitt.

On a similar theme, Calling All Boys by The Flirts.

Ohmygod what is this video…?

Hey Hey Guy by Ken Laszlo.

Then the most major record ever – Another Man by Barbara Mason.

The next record is the most modern I played all night.

When I started this list, it was super long, and had loads of new stuff.

But this was the only record that made sense in the edit.

Who Wrote The Rules Of Love?, by Omar S with vocals by Colonel Abrams.

(this version jumps a couple of times in the first few seconds – apologies – stay with it – the record is gorgeous).

I love the next record.

How To Pick Up Girls by Bobby Orlando.

Beyond LOL.

Another self-explanatory record – Handsome Man by Sparkle.

This next song has so much optimism and excitement about what a night could bring.

Call Me Tonight by Cerrone.

On a similar bent, In The Evening by Sheryl Lee Ralph.

“In the evening/The real me comes alive”.

Another record with the naivety of nighttime possibilities.

First Time Around by Skyy.

The next record is by the mother of Sinitta.

What more can be said?

So Many Men, So Little Time, by Miquel Brown.

To me, this is the sound of the Joiners Arms at about 2.23am.

Love Pains by Yvonne Elliman.

More gorgeousness – Come To Me by France Joli.

I Like You by Phyllis Nelson.

I thought about this next one long and hard.

Madonna was David’s great friend.

Should I play a Madonna record?

To me, this version of Open Your Heart is the most perfect mix ever.

Taking a record, and stretching out its components, letting them shine on their own, to create the most extraordinary, balanced, beyond exciting new work.

Here’s how I decided it in the end.

Would David have liked to have heard Madonna himself?

The answer was obviously yes.

So on it went.

Another extraordinary mix.

Always On My Mind/In My House by Pet Shop Boys.

Another self-explanatory record.

I Need A Man by Grace Jones.

Which was on the first ever cassette I ever bought – her Island Life compilation.

I was aged 12.

Wait for the zithers at 5.16.

The quite fabulous Fashion Pack (Studio 54) by Amanda Lear.

Here she is, performing it um live…

And so the pace picks up.

Don’t Stop The Train by Phyllis Nelson.

I’m Learning To Dance All Over Again by Lorraine Johnson.

Another super important record for us at the Joiners Arms.

Hit And Run Lover by Carol Jiani.

What I loved about doing the Joiners was finding the most amazing records that totally worked, and which seemed not to be known.

Like this one.

Fly Me On The Wings Of Love by Celi Bee.

I’d programmed four hours of music for the party last night, but actually this was the last record played.

I love it.

And I thought that David would find it hilarious.

If My Friends Could See Me Now by Linda Clifford.

Here’s what would have come after.

I’m Coming Out by Diana Ross.

Obviously.

I Want Your Love by Chic.

Obviously.

There were four records with which, if it was my turn, I always ended Macho City at the Joiners Arms.

The always hopeful, always optimistic Maybe This Time by Norma Lewis.

(And it was a slightly different mix from this, but it ain’t on the world of YouTube…)

This next is a record that just makes me dance and weep and dance.

Band Of Gold by Sylvester.

David was an avid fan of Donna Summer.

Here’s her Last Dance.

And then, one of my favourite records in the world.

Ever.

Take Me Home by Cher.

What a total honour, and pleasure, to put those records together.

Thank you, David.

The ICA’s Room & Book fair has just opened. It’s amazing. Here’s some of the books on sale

The ICA has a book sale on this weekend.

It’s super amazing, called Room & Book.

Here’s some of the things on sale.

Elegantly Papered have on their stall a 1964 issue of Tatler with a cover by Bridget Riley.

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Details when it was Details before it became Details.

This issue’s from 1984.

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They’ve also got a pristine pile of a few copies of Nest.

i.e. the world’s greatest ever magazine in the entire universe ever.

Who’s got what else?

Absent Without Leave by Christopher Wool, on Oliver J Wood.

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Over on Bookmarc, somebody’s already bought this Andy Warhol book about Trash.

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And also these Richard Prince books.

The one on the left is in the £1000s.

The one on the left under £100 or something.

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They’ve got Alasdair McLellan turning up Saturday on Bookmarc to sign copies of his book.

He’ll be there at 3pm.

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20th Century Art Archive, run by Louisa Riley Smith, has this 1964 album by John Wallowitch.

Its cover is by Andy Warhol.

Wallowitch was bald, so Warhol made the decision to cut the photos at the mouth.

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She also has this amazing catalogue from Matisse’s exhibition at MoMA.

Anyone who’s been to Matisse Cut-Outs at the Tate will know that Matisse himself created the cover for this catalogue.

Louisa said she’s leant some of her books to the exhibition.

Amazing!

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I’ve had an intern with me the past couple of days, Sunnii.

Hey Sunnii!

If you could have one book, which would it be?

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Amazing!

It’s on the Louis Vuitton Maison Librairie stand.

On the Ditto Press stand, this Comme des Garçons book with images from a Japanese TV documentary.

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A rare image of the Comme des Garçons studio.

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Sunnii the intern was particularly interested in this old image of Anna Della Russo.

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OMG STOP EVERYTHING.

What’s that on the bottom shelf?

THE MOST IMPORTANT BOOK EVER PUBLISHED THAT I’D NEVER HEARD OF BEFORE!

SHONEN KNIFE LAND!

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A whole book about Shonen Knife!

In Japanese!

With stickers!

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And a Hobby Lecture titled “We’re going to make Shonen Knife’s clothing”.

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NOTHING WOULD MAKE ME HAPPIER THAN TO MAKE SHONEN KNIFE’S CLOTHING.

Life is complete.

The fair’s super super good.

Click here for more info etcetcetc

Here’s some Shonen Knife.

Baggs.

Obviously.

THEIR SONG ABOUT LOUIS VUITTON.

The next Chapter 10 is on August 24. The last was a roadblock. Here’s who’s playing…

Hey so this morning we’ve announced our next Chapter 10 rave up hoo-ha for the gays.

It’ll be on August 24th.

i.e. the Sunday of the August bank holiday.

i.e. amazing.

It’ll run from 11pm-8am.

i.e. amazing.

Because at the last one the room was still packed at the 6am close and we could have carried on forever.

i.e. amazing.

AMAZING!

And it’s at the same warehouse.

i.e. there’ll be the same Beard Corner.

Which as the morning comes turns into Tops Off Beard Corner.

Obvs.

And the zone for Chatty Kathy’s.

And too-low-a-ceiling-in-the-corridor-for-A-Man-To-Pet’s-headpieces.

The line-up is…

TAMA SUMO!!!

Here’s her on that Boiler Room thingy.

Tama is from that Berlin and plays at that Berghain and is on Ostgut Ton and is basically amazing.

!!!MARCO SHUTTLE!!!

Marco’s from that Italy but lives in that London.

Here’s some Marco Shuttle-ness.

!!!RANDOMER!!!

Randomer is a North London lad and he is amazing.

Here’s some Randomer-ness…

And then that Dan Beaumont who can play records.

And then me who pretends he can play records.

Pretending I can play jollinesses like this.

The new Marquis Hawkes.

!!!COME TO CHAPTER 10!!!

Here’s the fancy Facebook page thingy…

And right now this second you can buy early bird tickets for £10.

The last one was a complete roadblock.

Queues down the street.

So like you know it pays to be early.

Click here for early birdness!

I thank you.

More about Beard Corner and Chatty Kathy’s as the weeks pass by.

I assure you.