David Zwirner has a new show by little known artist Jack Bilbo. It’s amazing. Some pics

David Zwirner in London has just opened a show by the little known artist Jack Bilbo.

It’s totally amazing.

Bilbo was born in Berlin in 1907, fleeing the Nazis in the 30s and settling in London in 1936.

Self taught, his work is of humour, sex and morality.

Here’s one of his works.

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It reads “I don’t like private capitalism, I don’t like state capitalism – I do like my own capitalism.”

Another work, this one from the ’40s.

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It reads “Anything to be original”, say the Boheemohomians (The He-Shees)

Another work.

It reads: “Death knows no frontiers, races, classes, or religions – Death is impartial – why not life?”

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Another.

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It reads: “The State is a heartless machine, yet it holds your heart in its destructive hands. The state itself has neither heart nor conscience, not sense of humour.”

Another.

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It reads: “Five politicians trying to get the vote of the village idiot”.

Another.

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“A stroke of the pen, a rubber stamp – decide who shall be homeless.”

The curator Rodolphe von Hoffmannsthal says that he first became aware of Bilbo’s work last November, when the amazing Aaron Angell exhibited his work alongside Bilbo in Glasgow at SWG3.

Apparently Bilbo was into spanking.

Hence the obsession with women’s backsides.

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It’s called “The Bottom-Face”.

And then this…

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It’s called “Afternoon In The Garden”.

And this…

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“Close neighbours who cannot meet, even when they pass in the street”.

Or this…

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“Women expecting triplets, returning home from the cinema”.

There are paintings too.

Here’s a self-portrait.

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I love this portrait.

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During the Blitz, Bilbo opened The Modern Art Gallery in St James’s.

There he showed pieces by Picasso and Kurt Schwitters alongside his own work.

A book that he published.

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Bilbo once self-published his autobiography.

Jack by Jack Bilbo.

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There’s a copy of it by the front desk that you can flick through.

The Modern Art Gallery.

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The beginning of a chapter on Decadence And Culture.

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One of the sculptures he made in Weybridge, where he moved after the war.

Among the specs are its weight: 44,000 lbs.

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The End.

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Such an amazing show.

David Zwirner’s just up the road from Dover Street Market.

Click here for the details and stuff.

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: here’s some new stuff that you can buy. On a Tuesday. Or whenever

OMG it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY!

As in it’s a Tuesday and there’s some new stuff around and you can buy it if you want.

OMG MARTINE ROSE AT V-FILES…

Can we talk about Martine Rose at V-Files?

I mean, look at these jeans.

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LOOK AT THOSE JEANS.

The dream.

And OMG.

LOOK AT THEIR INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION BELT THINGY.

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It’s a marvel of the modern world.

That internal belt thingy is what keeps them up.

They’re $425, which by my highly scientific Google currency converter is right now this second £257.14

CLICK HERE ETCETCETC

And also the words “Camo” and “Wide” and “Leg” and “Trouser” deserve some attention when put together, no?

Martine’s CAMO WIDE LEG TROUSERS!!!

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These are $495, which works out right now this second as £299.34

CLICK HERE ETCETC AND SCROLL DOWN A BIT

Hey shall we put something on while we’re looking at stuff?

Here’s that Sing Like A Bird by that Marco Shuttle, who played at our CHAPTER 10 hoo-ha the other weekend.

OK what else?

What about the-website-with-the-same-surname-as-me?

OMG Junya Watanabe…

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It’s called a panelled quilted nylon coat, as you do.

It’s £885, click here etcetcetc

Ooh this Aspesi padded gilet thingy’s razzy too.

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It’s “only” £240, click here etcetc.

OK what else.

OMG RICHARD NICOLL’S AMAZING DISCREET SWEATERSHIRT…

It’s in at Matches or matchesfashion.com or whatever we’re meant to call it.

IT IS AMAZING.

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Ohgod.

One of the pieces of the season.

If you can be bothered to call it a season anymore.

This is the autumn/winter 2014 season! Ha!

Anyway, whatever.

THE SWEATSHIRT IS SO GOOD.

Click here etcetc

What else?

I mean, you’ve all already got your cashmere balaclava nun’s habit from Rick Owens, right?

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It’s £796, click here etcetc

I have actually already got my new Rick Owens bodybag – I went for the jersey option, as you do.

Here’s a side view, just to confirm it’s rear entry zip status.

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CONFIRMED: it has a rear entry zip facility.

Relief.

It’s £476 on Rick’s online thingy – click here etcetc – I bought mine at his South Audley Street store in London.

What else?

!!!!SOCKS!!!!

OMG Albam have introduced their own socks.

THEY ARE AMAZING.

They’re called Marl socks, and are made for Albam by a “family run business in the Midlands”.

They come in red…

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In navy.

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In black.

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Etcetc.

You get the drill.

They’re £12 each.

SO AMAZING.

I’m in my super short Lanvin/Acne shorts today because it’s so warm in London, but have shifted from sandals back to trainers.

And I’m really enjoying having a chunky sock on display.

My current ones are American Apparel.

But very much looking forward to getting some pairs of these.

click here etcetc

Is that enough new stuff for this NEW STUFF TUESDAY?

I do believe that it is.

It’s almost the 10th anniversary of Dover Street Market. A peek at their birthday rejig

It’s about to be the tenth anniversary of Dover Street Market in London.

To celebrate, the store’s had a rejig, and introduced some limited edition pieces.

On the second floor, there’s the first ever area dedicated to Paul Harnden Shoemakers.

It was pandemonium there, as many garments on the table waiting to be tried on than on the rail.

A limited edition badge.

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A limited edition bag.

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One of Paul’s cute squished hats.

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On the wall are photos of Paul’s home in Brighton, where he makes all of his clothes.

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The kitchen.

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It’s been a long while since I’ve seen Paul – I went to his house once to interview him for GQ Style a million years ago.

Maybe I should go see him again.

What else?

On the same floor, the return of WALTER VAN BIERENDONCK.

Always a designer worthy of capitals.

Some shelves of his stuff.

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Those sneakers with added eyeballs.

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A cropped and strapped jacket on a rail nearby.

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Up the corner on the second floor is this creation.

I think it’s a changing room.

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Close up.

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Down in the basement is a rail of limited edition pieces by Palace.

They were going fast.

This is um me trying on an inside-out long-sleeve T.

The logo on the back is upside-down.

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The changing room in which that headless selfie was taken.

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Nearby is a limited edition run of tie-dye jersey pieces by Craig Green.

OBVIOUSLY AMAZING.

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And then up the far corner is the phenomenal world of the Good Design Shop.

With its homewares straight from Japan.

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Literally where everyone will be getting their Christmas presents from this year, whether they want a folding stool or not.

And there’s twelve billion other things.

All very jolly indeed.

JOLLY!

I’ve bought the Nasir Mazhar picture frame hoodie. But who goes in the frame? Discuss

OMG I’ve bought the Nasir Mazhar picture frame hoodie!

I got it at Machine A.

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It’s SO AMAZING.

And see that black rectangle?

IT’S A PICTURE FRAME!

As in, you can put any picture in it you like.

BEST TOP EVER.

But who should go in the frame?

Karl and Conchita.

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Lauren Goodger off that Celebrity Big Brother and that Essex thingy.

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Hot builder dad Richard off that Bake Off.

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Louis from that One Direction.

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ZAYN.

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Pregnant Kourtney Kardashian in a chic understated lace bodysuit.

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ROB KARDASHIAN.

MY HERO.

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Some badges of Princess Di and that man she married.

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OMG wouldn’t Princess Di have done the best Ice Bucket Challenge ever?

Sadness.

Anna Wintour’s Ice Bucket Challenge.

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Um.

That’s it.

Bye!

I’m obsessed with the pencil behind the ear of Richard from Bake Off. An appreciation

The most inspired piece of casting in all of TV history is Richard, the hot dad builder on Bake Off.

He with the pencil behind his ear.

OBSESSED.

Pencils behind ears quite clearly the accessory of the century.

The first time we saw the pencil, in his first ever VT in episode one about what he’s like in real life.

In real life, he builds stuff with a pencil behind his ear.

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The pencil didn’t appear in the tent until the morning of his first ever Showstopper Bake.

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He baked something or other.

He bought it up for Mary and Paul to taste.

Would they like it?

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They did. 

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Next episode, the hot dad building scenes were so hot, they showed us more.

This time, a tea break in the hot dad building scene.

Here’s Richard bending for a cuppa.

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Dunk it.

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A casual chit-chat that just so happens to be facing to camera.

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Go on, touch it.

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He’s making some sort of something or other.

Look at those jeans.

Note the hand-wiping marks on his backside.

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Gratuitous pencil shot.

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Do you want to see his gingerbread 3D pirate scene, or should we move on to last night’s episode and him pounding some dough?

Thought so.

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OMG COMBAT TROUSERS!

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It’s hot work.

The sweater soon comes off.

Razzy T-shirt!

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Oh yeah this is meant to be a pencil appreciation, isn’t it?

Go on, show us your pencil.

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He’s baking something or other, and has to put it in some drawer or something so that something happens.

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Go on, bend over.

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Ooops sorry PENCILS.

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And it’s only week three.

Pencils are EVERYWHERE.

On the Central Line the other day, this lad got on at Oxford Circus.

Alright it’s a biro but still.

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Then there’s Nasir Mazhar’s caps.

They always have a pencil loop.

Here’s one on Nasir’s head, image nicked from The Dandy Project.

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Um.

That’s it.

BUT STILL.

OHMYGOD I’M OBSESSED WITH PENCILS.

Do you think:

a) I’ve never taken a promotional pencil from the offices and showrooms of a fashion house.

b) I’m a regular promotional pencil kleptomaniac.

???

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WAIT.

WHERE IS MY PRADA PENCIL?

Ohgod.

All everything is to be stopped until I find my Prada pencil.

No work shall be done.

PENCIL SKIRT BY PULP!

Ronald Reagan. Desert Storm. KRS-One. Close up with the provocative new Supreme drop

August 21 sees one of those moments of pandemonium that should be a lesson to others in the fashion industry.

Tomorrow, the new season’s stuff from Supreme arrives in its London, New York and Los Angeles stores.

Supreme only released full images of the collection on Monday.

The brand operates entirely separately from most other menswear labels, which revealed their autumn/winter collections back in January.

Most labels have a long, long lag between reveal and availability.

Which seems very outmoded.

Supreme creates its own taut hype by keeping the collection secret until almost the day it is released.

And rather than introducing it in dribs and drabs, there’s an actual launch date.

Hence the queues, and the connection its customers feel with the brand.

I can only think of Céline who operates in a similar way, not revealing its pre-collections (the bulk of the stuff in its stores) until it becomes available.

Though with them, there’s no release date, no queues, just continual reason to visit its stores.

Back to Supreme.

This new collection is super complex and provocative.

Here’s what it calls a cotton ripstop N-3B parka.

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(photos nicked from the Supreme website btw)

Look at that image on the sleeve.

It’s of Ronald Reagan.

You can see it more clearly on this image from the side.

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It seems to appear only on this parka in the collection, its effect enough.

Elsewhere in the collection are caps printed with the words “Desert Storm”.

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Desert Storm was the codename for the Gulf War in January-February 1991, ordered by Reagan’s successor, George H. W. Bush.

Also in the collection is a T-shirt featuring the album artwork for By All Means Necessary, by Boogie Down Productions. The cover image is of KRS-One.

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One of the tracks on the album is “Stop The Violence”.

KRS-One of Boogie Down Productions went on to form the Stop The Violence Movement.

All these pieces seem so prescient to the current situation in Iraq, and also the police shooting of Michael Brown in Ferguson, St Louis.

Super provocative too is how the pieces are styled in the online lookbook.

Here’s how the Reagan parka is worn.

Over the intentional cute banality of a cherry sweater.

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The KRS-One T-shirt is shown under a blankly respectable mohair cardigan.

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Supreme is deft with these unspoken contradictions and undercurrents.

They are just presented, and not commented on.

And are among lots of other product – firemen’s coats, corduroy Harringtons, plaid shirts, hi-vis jackets and hockey tops.

I find the collection absolutely thrilling.

You can view the whole lot here.

I wonder if the queue’s started in London?

I passed by the store yesterday afternoon, as yet no-one was on line.

I’m guessing there may be some waiting there now.

If anyone’s seen it in Soho, or is sat in the queue, message me on Twitter at @charlie_porter or on Instagram at @thecharlieporter

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: some new stuff that you can, like, buy on a Tuesday and stuff

Hey it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY.

As in it’s a Tuesday and you can buy some new stuff if you wanted.

Ohmygod it’s cold.

Like actually this is autumn cold.

As in, cold enough to wear autumn/winter clothes.

Which is lucky since they’ve been arriving in stores for oooh the last six weeks or so.

It the first time these clothes have started to make sense.

Let’s have a look at the new deliveries.

(Oh and by the way, someone told me once that some websites get paid to link to a store or brand’s products. I don’t  – these are just things I think are jolly).

First up: the website-with-the-same-surname-as-me.

Ohmygod look at this coat.

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It’s by Arc’teryx Veilance.

It’s called a Patrol IS Double Layered Coat.

As you would.

It’s amazing and it does stuff.

Like keep the rain out or something.

It’s £1400, click here etcetc.

What else?

This padded goose down jacket by Gucci is gorgeous.

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Its autumn/winter 14 collection was so so so good.

Of its spring/summer 15 collection, I’ve been very critical in the Financial Times.

Fashion can seem such a separatist thing, but I would actually like to wear Gucci.

And I would wear this coat.

It’d be great if it would steer back to such clothing with purpose for next autumn/winter.

The coat is £1100, click here etcetc.

What else?

Tim Coppens amazingness!

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So pretty.

It’s £835, click here etcetc.

Oooh this Bottega Veneta gilet’s nice.

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It’s only £440.

We’re now in a world where under £500 is called “only”.

Click here etcetc.

There’s good stuff on the website-with-the-same-surname-as-me.

Like… SIBLING.

Gorgeous jacquard knit sweater.

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This is an actual “only”.

It’s only £255, click here etcetc.

Let’s go somewhere else.

OHMYGOD TODAY’S NEW DELIVERY on the Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby temporary pop-up online store thingy is…

THIS SWEATER…

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I do believe that’s what you call “a piece”.

It’s €760, click here etcetc.

Right.

What have they got that’s nice and autumnal over at Matches which I’m sure I’m meant to call matchesfashion.com.

Ohgod this Rick Owens padded shearling collar jacket.

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It’s £1,699 and is lovely, click here etcetc.

Oh and obviously this Rick Owens merino wool balaclava.

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I need a new Rick balaclava – my old one is obviously totally moth-holed.

It’s £244, click here etcetc.

OHMYGOD LOOK AT THIS DRIES VAN NOTEN SLEEVELESS JACKET THINGY THEY’VE GOT ON THECORNER.COM

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IT’S INCREDIBLE.

It’s got velcro closures and two pockets or something.

AND BOOT LACE TIES AT THE NECK.

It’s £565 and worth every single penny, click here etcetc.

Let’s go have a butchers in Other Shop.

I mean, a Craig Green patch strip sweater, obviously.

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In shock news, I already have one of these.

It’s £620, click here etcetc.

Aaaah look at this Peter Jensen sweatshirt.

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It’s at a very “only” price of only £109, click here etcetc.

OMG though over at V-Files…

The best picture frame hoodie ever created in the world ever…

As in, a hoodie with a picture frame in it…

By Nasir Mazhar…

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See that black rectangle?

It’s actually a picture frame sleeve thingy.

You can put whatever picture you want in it.

A picture of Kim.

A picture of Kourtney.

A picture of Khloe.

OBVIOUSLY a picture of Rob.

Both Rob then, and even better, Rob now.

A picture of Taylor Swift.

A picture of that builder in Bake Off with the pencil behind his ear.

A picture of transgender boxing promoter Kellie whatever-her-surmane-is.

ANY PICTURE YOU LIKE.

I used to have a Love Hearts pencil case with a heart shaped picture frame in the centre.

It only ever was home to a photo of Dusty Springfield.

I’ve still got it somewhere.

Anyway.

Back to Nasir Mazhar.

THE HOODIE IS AMAZING.

It’s $640 which in pounds is very definitely “only” something or other.

Click here etcetc.

OMG the new Taylor Swift.

How much time have you spent analysing the clothes of her um fans at the end?

Too much time, obviously.

Hey! Let’s do it again!

(Obviously this is silent analysis, because analysing the clothes of worn by the um fans at the end of the Taylor Swift video is obviously not what you do on a Tuesday morning at all)

(Oh no)

Um.

That’s it for this edition of NEW STUFF TUESDAY!

Will there ever be another edition?

Who knows!

Bye!

Carla Fernández is an amazing designer. Here’s her work, on show in Boston right now

Right now in Boston, the Isabel Gardner Museum has its first ever fashion show, featuring the work of the amazing Carla Fernández.

Carla is an incredible designer.

I first saw her work at her store in Mexico City when I was there earlier this year.

Carla makes garments of originality, modernity and ingenuity, using fresh cloth created by Mexican artisans.

It’s everything that I like about clothing at the moment: contemporary work of craft and skill which offers an alternative take on current notions of “luxury”.

Carla’s clothing isn’t that expensive.

The luxury comes from the pleasure of wearing the pieces themselves.

I’d hoped to meet up with Carla when I was in town, but she got super sick, and was on her way to Boston to get this show ready.

It’s super exciting that she’s being recognised by the Isabel Gardner Museum – the show’s titled The Barefoot Designer: A Passion For Radical Design And Community.

I have our CARLA FERNÁNDEZ CORRESPONDENT to thank for the following images of the show.

Our CARLA FERNÁNDEZ CORRESPONDENT is the fabulous Pablo Leon De La Barra, the Guggenheim’s curator for Latin America, who posted many of these images this morning on his Instagram, @pablodelabarra

Here’s one of the works in the show.

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Hello nice lady walking round the corner!

Carla’s work often deals with drape, an ingenious use of simple shapes.

When I was in Mexico City, I bought a top similar to this for my mum.

It’s a large rectangle of gorgeous cloth with slits for the head and armholes.

It can be worn as a belted tabard like this, or turned horizontal and worn as a sleeveless jacket.

A close-up.

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Another work.

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Love.

It’s got that nicely awkward late 90s/turn of the millennium feel.

A close-up.

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Another work.

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Obviously obsessed with the headpieces.

Goes without saying.

OMG here’s Carla!

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Another work.

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More from the show.

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Ohgod I wish I was in Boston to see it.

If you’re anywhere near Boston, go go go – the show’s on till September 1st.

Oh and here’s Carla’s own website…

Thank  you, CARLA FERNÁNDEZ CORRESPONDENT!

We haven’t had many CORRESPONDENTS recently, have we?

Like, forever.

Maybe we should start hiring again…