Berlin round-up: Agnes Martin, The Cockettes, Daniel Buren, Mike Bouchet, Ryan Trecartin etc

I spent the weekend in Berlin.

So today I am a man of few words.

Luckily I am a man of pictures.

Here’s some stuff from a few of the shows I saw there.

First up, the extraordinary Pictures, Before and After – An Exhibition for Douglas Crimp, at Galerie Buchholz.

It honours the life of Douglas Crimp, an American art historian, curator and activist who is celebrating his 70th birthday.

The show brings together art and artefacts of those he has touched.

A lithograph by Agnes Martin.

Crimp curated a show my Martin in the 1970s.

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In the same room, TII-338 by Daniel Buren.

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Crimp was working at the Guggenheim in NYC when Buren’s monumental Peinture-Sculpture was removed from the central atrium, before the opening of a show titled Guggenheim International Exhibition, in which it was meant to be included.

Some installation views of Peinture-Sculpture.

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Crimp worked with Charles James.

The show includes two of the sketches by Antonio Lopez of Charles James’s work.

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They are called Ribbon Cape Drawing 1 and 2 from 1974 – I can’t remember which is which.

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In the next room, a monitor is playing Trisha’s Wedding by The Cockettes.

The opening titles.

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And then…

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Amazing!

It’s a 30-odd minute long reenactment of the wedding of Tricia Nixon from 1971.

Among the guests are HRH Queen Elizabeth.

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Prince Charles copping off with Mick Jagger.

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Eartha Kitt was a special guest.

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The Kennedy Sisters performed a special number.

That’s Jackie in the white in the middle.

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The service is a joy.

Then Eartha Kitt goes and puts something in the punch before the party.

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Oooops.

So amazing.

I watched it all the way through.

Before me, some other guy had done the same.

Half an hour in headphones stood by a screen.

Here’s a trailer.

Amazing.

On a screen nearby, film of Robert Smithson’s Spiral Jetty.

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In a vitrine nearby, bound Ellsworth Kelly lithographs.

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And so it continues.

Alvin Baltrop’s photo of Pier 52 – Gordon Matta Clark’s Days End building, with a naked man just visible in the doorway.

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Another work by Alvin Baltrop.

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Arnold Schwarzenegger at the Whitney Museum’s performance series Articulate Muscle: The Male Body in Art, from 1976.

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So much more stuff.

The show is incredible.

It’s on until 31 October – go go go if you happen to be in Berlin, click here for more etcetc.

Douglas Crimp has a memoir out next year too – super exciting.

Let’s move on.

A new show by Mike Bouchet has just opened at Peres Projects.

It’s titled Power Lunch.

This one’s Uptown 2.

Obsessed.

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World Legend 2.

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Diana Pickle.

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WarHorse Orgy.

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Teachers and Students.

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Kim K. Jacuzzi.

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SO AMAZING.

The show’s on till 1 November, click here etcetc

Then over at KW, there’s an insanely unbelievable new work by Ryan Trecartin made with his longterm collaborator Lizzie Fitch.

IT’S SO GOOD.

There’s a main film over a few different screens in a cinema room with the seats taken out.

In their place are camper beds and the like.

My camper bed was really comfy.

The film seems to be about them not believing they’re able to roam in this building at night, that they should get in the elevator, where the snacks are, and then whether you call shit “poop”.

As well as three million other things.

Some pics from during the film.

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At one point they were in a room of tents.

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Another.

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Ohgod.

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Site Visit is on until 11 January 2015.

OMG only a week or so till Lizzie Fitch and Ryan Trecartin open at the Zabludowicz collection in London.

One more show.

Colourbox: Music of the group (1982-1987).

It’s at Wolfgang Tillmans gallery Between Bridges.

The first in a series of exhibitions giving a dedicated space to the playback of recorded music.

As in, you go into a room, sit in a chair, and listen to music on super high spec equipment.

In this instance, the work of Colourbox.

It was so amazing.

I never listened to Colourbox as a kid.

I only went as far as Pixies on 4AD.

But it’s the sort of music that probably sounds better as an adult anyway.

Posting YouTube clips of the songs played would kind of defeat the object.

There are three songs on a loop.

looks like we’re shy one horse/shoot out; sleepwalker; just give ‘em whisky.

The show is on until 25 October – go if you can.

Wolfgang has also put together and designed a CD of sixteen tracks only available at the show.

I saw him later that night.

He said he chose three tracks for the show rather than play the whole 16 to make the experience easier.

Or at least I think that’s what he said.

It was very late at night.

Here’s the CD.

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I’m listening to it now.

Back home.

Thank you, Berlin.

Close-up with the amazing Prada women’s SS15 collection. Backstage. And alone

After last night’s extraordinary Prada show, I went backstage to say hello to Mrs Prada.

I was sat far from backstage, so was near the back of the queue.

There was already a throng waiting for her impromptu press conference, where she says a few words about the collection that had just been seen.

I said hello, then went to explore.

Here’s the throng, just as Mrs Prada was starting to talk.

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I left them to it.

Through a couple of doors, round the corner, was the room where many of the models get dressed.

It was almost empty, the detritus of a show all around.

The first dress I saw.

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It pretty much sums up the collection for me.

The indulgence of the fabrics.

Indulgence here a very good thing.

The richness of the raw edges.

Backstage, the clothes are arranged ready for models on rails.

And so if the clothes are together here, they were worn together on the catwalk.

On a rail nearby, a dirndl skirt with diagonal trim, worn with the topstitch jacket behind it.

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I loved this leather coat.

And can you just see the green of that sweater behind it?

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Another leather coat, with raw-edged trim.

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The platform clogs, bagged up.

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By this point, I was pretty much alone in this room.

Here’s a rail with two looks.

Look at the breadth of ideas.

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Let’s separate out that look at the back.

That dress is so eloquent.

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On the front of each rail, a card detailing the look for the dressers who help the models.

The richness of this look.

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I need to check about this stitching – I remember at menswear being told there was a difference between the men’s and women’s.

Basically, the women’s is more serious.

Maybe it’s the the stitching is more decorative, more thick?

I’ll check.

Those cloths, those clogs.

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A top-stitched coat.

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Close-up with that stitching.

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More clogs, this time a boot.

I loved the perversity of these heels in this season of supposed flatness.

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Another amazing raw-trimmed dress, with cloth of colours that vibrate.

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A cute top.

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A little leather jacket, the show playing on a loop on a screen behind.

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Backstage, alone with Prada.

It was time for me to go.

I had a plane to catch.

To go home.

Meadham Kirchhoff had some amazing menswear in their show. The looks. Upside-down

At their show yesterday, Meadham Kirchhoff sent out ten menswear looks.

I wasn’t at the show – I was on my way to Milan – but they deserve closer inspection.

Here’s the first look.

!!!!UPSIDE-DOWN PICTURE ALERT!!!!

+++AS WITH ALL CATWALK PHOTOGRAPHY, I TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN+++

***SO YOU CAN SEE THROUGH THE RECOGNISABLE IMAGE TO SEE THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES***

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(Pic is a shonky screengrab from style.com btw)

Some words on that vest.

Fag. Arse bandit. Queer. Batty boy.

Many are obscured by the central figure, but you can see “Lifter”, probably with “Shirt” before it, “Fudge”, probably with “Packer” after it.

Next look.

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I mean amazing.

just to see a pair of specs on the catwalk.

He looks so chic, and then you see what he has on is so sheer.

Obsessed with those cut-out holes.

Next look.

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It’s lovely to see the Meadham Kirchhoff menswear as a companion to its women’s, a part of its defiant whole.

Ben and Ed live near me.

Their studio is not that far away.

We’re in an area where gentrification bring with it a certain anodyne look.

All around, blocks of flats are being built, clad in billboards displaying the prospective anodyne lifestyle of its future gentrifying inhabitants.

It’s a look of niceness and acceptability that is too all too prevalent at London Fashion Week.

The work at Meadham Kirchhoff seemed in gleeful defiance of this.

Defiant with the rude power of individuality.

Another look.

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Just glorious.

That coat.

And the circular gather on those trousers.

Another look.

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Simple but also not.

The cut of the vest.

The lingerie clasps.

THOSE BOOTS.

I’m running out of time.

Another look.

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Cute skirt.

More.

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That coat.

That wonky shirt, looks like two different cloths.

That underwear!

More.

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Those tension causing straps on the trench.

Those trousers!

Aaargh I’m late.

Quick.

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AMAZING.

Fairly sure that’s an open-fronted body.

One more.

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The end.

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: It the Fashion East show today. Here’s new stuff by their alumni!

Hey so it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY.

As in it’s a Tuesday.

And you can buy some new stuff.

If you wanted.

OMG in like no seconds at all it’s the FASHION EAST show!

(It’s on at 1pm UK time, and you can watch it if you click here etcetc)

Let’s look at some NEW STUFF! You can buy from their alumni! On a Tuesday! Or any other day!

(Obviously by their alumni, I’m talking about those that have been part of it’s MAN show with Topman, or the Fashion East Installations. Obvs)

Their current crop first.

!!!LIAM HODGES!!!

This is the stuff that was in his Fashion East Installations presentation back in January.

The one with Stonehenge made from a stack of speakers.

And gaffer tape on the floor.

A knit hoodie.

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It’s £405 at Primitive London, click here etcetc.

Or his “stoned circle” baseball top.

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It’s £175, click here etcetc.

!!!!NICOMEDE TALAVERA!!!

Again, his work from the Fashion East Installations back  in January (he made his MAN debut with SS15 in June).

This is a wool zip-up with leather applique.

Super gorge.

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It’s £690 over at LN-CC, click here etcetc.

!!!!!BOBBY ABLEY!!!!!

He who had the most extraordinary season with his SS15 stuff.

As in, the Ursula sweatshirt that everyone wants.

Everyone.

Here’s a sweatshirt from his AW14 collection, over at Wildstyle in LA.

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It’s $720, click here etcetc

ALUMNI!!!!

!!!!!AAAASSTTTRIDDDDD ANDDEERRRRSEEEEENNNN!!!!!!

Obviously her lace T-shirt.

Which I have already.

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You can get it at £294 at Luisa Via Roma.

(Obvs you can go get Astrid’s stuff at Machine A in London, but they don’t sell stuff online).

!!!!!JAMES LONG!!!!!!

Here’s one of his bubble front sweatshirts.

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It’s £330 at the glamorous Browns, click here etcetcetc

!!!!!AGI & SAM!!!!

Their AW14 collection was so amazing.

Here’s the Watu-Nguvu sweatshirt.

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It’s only £120, click here etcetcetc

!!!!CRAIG GREEN!!!

Here’s one of his hand-painted T-shirts.

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It’s £270, click here etcetc

!!!!!!CHRISTOPHER SHANNON!!!!!!

I mean obviously the already much-worn and much-loved fag packet sweater.

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You can get it at VFiles for $430 which is about £265, click here etcetc.

OK THAT’S IT.

GOTTA GO.

GOOD LUCK FASHION EAST PEOPLE!

What happens when a garment goes from being admired to worn? Case in point: Craig Green

When it comes to fashion shows, I have a general rule: if I don’t need to be there, I don’t go.

Occasionally I’ll break it, but it’s an attempt at retaining some form of sanity and distance.

If you go to too many without purpose, just to spectate, you can begin to feel its your birthright.

It’s not.

So while there’s newness at the womenswear catwalks, I’ve been thinking about clothing that is already worn.

The life of garments long after they appear at shows.

As the weather has turned, I’ve been grabbing jackets, pretty much without thinking.

To my surprise, and pleasure, the jacket I’ve been grabbing most is this hand-painted canvas piece by Craig Green.

It’s from the current autumn/winter 15 season, which means we first saw it a long, long time ago – back in January.

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It’s such a spectacle, I hadn’t considered what it would be like to wear it.

Or how I would even feel about wearing it in the first place.

Now I just throw it on.

It doesn’t happen with all the pieces I’ve bought from him.

But there’s usually at least one a season that crosses over into perpetual wear – last season it was the tie-dye jumper.

Right now, it’s this canvas jacket.

Here’s me the other weekend presenting my Iron Age pasta necklace (actually a buttonhole) to the Discerning Eye at the filming of Marvin Gaye Chetwynd’s forthcoming work at Studio Voltaire.

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That evening, I ended up having an accidental night out in Clapham.

Outside Kaz-Bar, some young lad was saying he’d never be able to get away with something like that.

So I got him to try it on.

He was pleased as punch.

I’ll cover his face – he said he had a girlfriend.

(I didn’t cop off with him or anything, but you know).

(That’s the pasta buttonhole hanging off the jacket, btw).

(And the blacked out eye teddies are from Undercover’s Madstamp app).

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A couple of days later I wore the jacket to The Gentlewoman launch at the Cafe Royal.

I went along with Princess Julia.

Here we are as coverstars.

(She’s in head-to-toe Sibling).

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(pic is by George Harvey btw)

A couple of days after I was wearing it for meetings.

It has gone beyond a-piece-I-need-to-think-about-wearing to that-piece-I-know-I’ll-love-to-have-on.

Not necessarily an easy leap.

It joins a couple of other jackets I’ve been enjoying wearing these past couple of weeks.

If it looks like rain, I’ll put on this Prada zip-up I got at DSM NY earlier in the year.

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(I’ve actually got no idea if it’s waterproof or not, but still).

And also this old denim parka from Cosmic Wonder.

It needs a wash, sorry.

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The last time I wore it was on 30th August 2011.

I know this because I found in its pocket the minutes for the meeting at the British Fashion Council, where it was discussed whether to launch a separate menswear schedule – what became known as London Collections: Men.

Its back.

The picture hasn’t flipped – the words are back-to-front.

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I like it when I get into cycles of clothing.

It helps when the weather is like a holding pattern, always the same.

I’m wearing those Carhartt denim shorts again today, the ones I wrote about last week.

I just pick them up and put them on.

A sweater, like that John Smedley, or a Christopher Shannon sweatshirt.

One of these jackets.

And on my feet, my very nicely aged Prada trainers, the ones I’ve been wearing non-stop since March.

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What it means to wear clothing is often illusive.

If a garment is worn often, and becomes part of our own narrative about ourselves, then some meaning can come.

Here, the meaning of the Craig Green may just be how decoration can become a normality.

I’m popping out now.

Craig Green jacket on.

The amazing James Davison is illustrating the shows for me. First up: Marc By Marc Jacobs

James Davison is an amazing, amazing illustrative artist.

His work has pout and poise and clarity. His characters are pumped up and idealised. His line is bold and gleeful.

For the next month or so, he’s going to be doing illustrations from the Spring/Summer 2015 womenswear shows for me, as and when.

Making them into his own world.

First up, a couple from Marc By Marc Jacobs.

I do believe this is Look 3.

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Gorge!

Here’s that look in real life.

!!!!UPSIDE DOWN PHOTO ALERT!!!

****AS ALWAYS, I TURN CATWALK IMAGES UPSIDE DOWN***

+++SO YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE RECOGNISABLE IMAGE TO SEE THE CLOTHES THEMSELVES+++

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And Look 4…

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Major…

Upside down reality…

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AMAZING!

James will be doing more as the days go on.

And TONIGHT, i.e. Thursday September 11th 2014, James is hosting late supper at Hoi Polloi.

He’s created their first new monthly menu.

He’s called it CLOBBER.

A fashion magazine with a difference.

James describes it as “Vogue meets Viz with a touch of the Daily Sport”.

JOLLY!

Tonight from 10pm, click here for the fancy Facebook page thingy…

SO EXCITED FOR THE NEXT MONTH OF JAMES DAVISON-NESS…

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: purposefully boring clothes to buy on a boring Tuesday. If you want

Hey it’s NEW STUFF TUESDAY.

As in, it’s a Tuesday and it’s a day you can buy some new stuff. If you want.

This week I’ve super obsessed with boring clothes.

Like my super boring John Smedley crew neck extra fine Merino wool sweater.

I did just type those words.

It’s so boring.

And looks SO GOOD with my dirty old Carhartt carpenters shorts.

Can I even be bothered to take a photo of it?

So boring.

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OBSESSED.

Said super boring Smedley with said Carhartt carpenter’s shorts.

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I got mine at Liberty a year or so ago, I’m guessing it might be this one?

aw13john068000331-navyIf it is the same one, it costs £120, click here etcetc

I was at a dinner last week wearing a razzier sweater.

The person sitting next to me asked about it.

I said who it was buy.

Then they said, you knew that if you wore that, people would ask you about it.

Actually I hadn’t thought that.

I wanted to show off this designer’s work.

But I suppose it was also true.

And when you wear something like the John Smedley sweater, no-one ever asks you about what you’re wearing.

Is that the mission?

Let’s look for more super boring clothes on this BUY STUFF TUESDAY.

The website-with-the-same-surname-as-me!

OHMYGOD the new seasons stuff by THE ELDER STATESMAN!!!

Look at this cashmere sweater.

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I mean, I pass out.

SO BORING AND AMAZING.

It’s £755, click here etcetc.

What else by The Elder Statesman?

OHMYGOD this textured cashmere knit.

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It’s £630, click here etcetc.

I mean, he has got some stuff that isn’t boring.

Are we allowed to look at non-boring stuff on this BUY STUFF TUESDAY Boring Special?

Go on, quickly.

OHMYGOD THIS CASHMERE DIP-DYED SWEATER!!!

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SO NOT BORING!

It’s £1050, click here etcetc.

And OMG BLANKETS.

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Totally worth every penny at um oh £5300 eeeeek, click here etcetc.

Apologies.

Back to boring.

Um.

Look at this boring Patagonia sweater.

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Isn’t Patagonia the thing we talk about when we talk about N*rmc*r*?

So boring.

Amazing.

It’s £110, click here etcetc.

Let’s go somewhere else.

OMG look at this super boring Gucci rollneck cashmere sweater over on Matches or matchesfashion.com or whatever it is wear meant to call it.

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SO BORING.

i.e. AMAZING.

It’s £485. Click here etcetc.

Hey it’s BUY STUFF TUESDAY.

We have to have a Rick Owens balaclava, right?

I mean it’s tradition.

Let’s try and find a boring i.e. amazing one.

Here!

MERIHA860002BLK_2_zoomIt’s “only” £244, click here etcetc.

Who else is boring?

OMG Topman has the most amazing boring off-white waffle texture top!

So boring, we shall only see it from the back.

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It’s £26, click here etcetc.

What else?

This “moss stitch” sweater.

“Moss stitch” being new to me.

So boring i.e. amazing we’ll only see it close up.

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Click here etcetc.

Aaaah being boring.

Such a nice way to be.

Boring.

Wait.

What’s this though?

A new billboard’s gone up in that prime location i.e. under the railway bridge at the end of the Hackney Road.

Ohgod.

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“DRESS NORMAL”.

!!!!!!!ARRRGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Is that an suggestion or a threat?

AAARRRRRRGGHHHHHHHH.

Quick.

I NEED TO LOOK AT SOME RAZZY STUFF.

Jeremy Scott.

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AMAZING.

It’s $455 in at VFiles.

Walter Van Bierendonck.

Poncho.

Yes.

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It’s $550, also at VFiles.

Undercover.

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£120 at the-website-with-the-same-name-as-me.

Gosha Rubchinskiy.

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Patchwork fake fur coat at Oki-ni for £400.

OK.

I think I’m better now.

Wait.

But what if not dressing normal is actually now dressing normal?

AARRRGHHHHH!

I mean like ohgod.

And with that conundrum we shall take our leave.

If I liked that song Being Boring I’d play it, but I don’t so I won’t.

THE BOREDOMS!!!!

If I could be anywhere right now it would be Tokyo for the 25th anniversary of Undercover

Tonight in Tokyo is a party for the 25th anniversary of Undercover.

I’m typing these words at 10.20am in London.

In Tokyo it’s 6.20pm.

The party starts at 10pm.

Then tomorrow at the Parco Museum opens TGRAPHICS.

An exhibition of Jun Takahashi’s T-shirts from 1990-2014.

T-shirts like this one.

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It’s from 1994.

And this one.

From 1992.

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It also feature’s Jun’s drawings and sketches.

Here’s one from 1992.

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Tokyo Sex Pistols was the covers band that Jun was in.

SO AMAZING.

Click here for more on the show, and go see if you’re in Japan.

Weird how few Undercover shows are online.

I’m fairly sure this was the first Undercover show I saw – AW03, of which I can only find this style.com review.

And I have such fond memories of SS04, which had models come out in pairs, one wearing an outfit that was like a warped stretched version of the other.

The invite was two plectrums. One normal, the other melted.

I still have it somewhere.

But anyway.

I’m not in Tokyo.

I’m in London.

So I’ll spend all day on the new Undercover app Madstamp.

It’s free on the appstore thingy.

Here’s a photo of me from my 27th birthday or something that’s been Madstamp-ed.

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MODERN!

David Zwirner has a new show by little known artist Jack Bilbo. It’s amazing. Some pics

David Zwirner in London has just opened a show by the little known artist Jack Bilbo.

It’s totally amazing.

Bilbo was born in Berlin in 1907, fleeing the Nazis in the 30s and settling in London in 1936.

Self taught, his work is of humour, sex and morality.

Here’s one of his works.

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It reads “I don’t like private capitalism, I don’t like state capitalism – I do like my own capitalism.”

Another work, this one from the ’40s.

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It reads “Anything to be original”, say the Boheemohomians (The He-Shees)

Another work.

It reads: “Death knows no frontiers, races, classes, or religions – Death is impartial – why not life?”

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Another.

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It reads: “The State is a heartless machine, yet it holds your heart in its destructive hands. The state itself has neither heart nor conscience, not sense of humour.”

Another.

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It reads: “Five politicians trying to get the vote of the village idiot”.

Another.

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“A stroke of the pen, a rubber stamp – decide who shall be homeless.”

The curator Rodolphe von Hoffmannsthal says that he first became aware of Bilbo’s work last November, when the amazing Aaron Angell exhibited his work alongside Bilbo in Glasgow at SWG3.

Apparently Bilbo was into spanking.

Hence the obsession with women’s backsides.

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It’s called “The Bottom-Face”.

And then this…

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It’s called “Afternoon In The Garden”.

And this…

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“Close neighbours who cannot meet, even when they pass in the street”.

Or this…

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“Women expecting triplets, returning home from the cinema”.

There are paintings too.

Here’s a self-portrait.

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I love this portrait.

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During the Blitz, Bilbo opened The Modern Art Gallery in St James’s.

There he showed pieces by Picasso and Kurt Schwitters alongside his own work.

A book that he published.

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Bilbo once self-published his autobiography.

Jack by Jack Bilbo.

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There’s a copy of it by the front desk that you can flick through.

The Modern Art Gallery.

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The beginning of a chapter on Decadence And Culture.

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One of the sculptures he made in Weybridge, where he moved after the war.

Among the specs are its weight: 44,000 lbs.

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The End.

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Such an amazing show.

David Zwirner’s just up the road from Dover Street Market.

Click here for the details and stuff.