I’ve bought the Nasir Mazhar picture frame hoodie. But who goes in the frame? Discuss

OMG I’ve bought the Nasir Mazhar picture frame hoodie!

I got it at Machine A.



And see that black rectangle?


As in, you can put any picture in it you like.


But who should go in the frame?

Karl and Conchita.


Lauren Goodger off that Celebrity Big Brother and that Essex thingy.


Hot builder dad Richard off that Bake Off.


Louis from that One Direction.




Pregnant Kourtney Kardashian in a chic understated lace bodysuit.





Some badges of Princess Di and that man she married.


OMG wouldn’t Princess Di have done the best Ice Bucket Challenge ever?


Anna Wintour’s Ice Bucket Challenge.



That’s it.


I’m obsessed with the pencil behind the ear of Richard from Bake Off. An appreciation

The most inspired piece of casting in all of TV history is Richard, the hot dad builder on Bake Off.

He with the pencil behind his ear.


Pencils behind ears quite clearly the accessory of the century.

The first time we saw the pencil, in his first ever VT in episode one about what he’s like in real life.

In real life, he builds stuff with a pencil behind his ear.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.21.45

The pencil didn’t appear in the tent until the morning of his first ever Showstopper Bake.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.48.35

He baked something or other.

He bought it up for Mary and Paul to taste.

Would they like it?

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.29.39

They did. 

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.29.43

Next episode, the hot dad building scenes were so hot, they showed us more.

This time, a tea break in the hot dad building scene.

Here’s Richard bending for a cuppa.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.42.49.

Dunk it.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.42.50

A casual chit-chat that just so happens to be facing to camera.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.42.58

Go on, touch it.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.42.59

He’s making some sort of something or other.

Look at those jeans.

Note the hand-wiping marks on his backside.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.55.43 1

Gratuitous pencil shot.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 13.55.19

Do you want to see his gingerbread 3D pirate scene, or should we move on to last night’s episode and him pounding some dough?

Thought so.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.12.40


Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.12.48

It’s hot work.

The sweater soon comes off.

Razzy T-shirt!

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.15.10

Oh yeah this is meant to be a pencil appreciation, isn’t it?

Go on, show us your pencil.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.17.07

He’s baking something or other, and has to put it in some drawer or something so that something happens.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.17.10

Go on, bend over.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.17.11

Ooops sorry PENCILS.

Screen Shot 2014-08-21 at 14.20.29

And it’s only week three.

Pencils are EVERYWHERE.

On the Central Line the other day, this lad got on at Oxford Circus.

Alright it’s a biro but still.


Then there’s Nasir Mazhar’s caps.

They always have a pencil loop.

Here’s one on Nasir’s head, image nicked from The Dandy Project.



That’s it.



Do you think:

a) I’ve never taken a promotional pencil from the offices and showrooms of a fashion house.

b) I’m a regular promotional pencil kleptomaniac.






All everything is to be stopped until I find my Prada pencil.

No work shall be done.


Ronald Reagan. Desert Storm. KRS-One. Close up with the provocative new Supreme drop

August 21 sees one of those moments of pandemonium that should be a lesson to others in the fashion industry.

Tomorrow, the new season’s stuff from Supreme arrives in its London, New York and Los Angeles stores.

Supreme only released full images of the collection on Monday.

The brand operates entirely separately from most other menswear labels, which revealed their autumn/winter collections back in January.

Most labels have a long, long lag between reveal and availability.

Which seems very outmoded.

Supreme creates its own taut hype by keeping the collection secret until almost the day it is released.

And rather than introducing it in dribs and drabs, there’s an actual launch date.

Hence the queues, and the connection its customers feel with the brand.

I can only think of Céline who operates in a similar way, not revealing its pre-collections (the bulk of the stuff in its stores) until it becomes available.

Though with them, there’s no release date, no queues, just continual reason to visit its stores.

Back to Supreme.

This new collection is super complex and provocative.

Here’s what it calls a cotton ripstop N-3B parka.


(photos nicked from the Supreme website btw)

Look at that image on the sleeve.

It’s of Ronald Reagan.

You can see it more clearly on this image from the side.


It seems to appear only on this parka in the collection, its effect enough.

Elsewhere in the collection are caps printed with the words “Desert Storm”.


Desert Storm was the codename for the Gulf War in January-February 1991, ordered by Reagan’s successor, George H. W. Bush.

Also in the collection is a T-shirt featuring the album artwork for By All Means Necessary, by Boogie Down Productions. The cover image is of KRS-One.


One of the tracks on the album is “Stop The Violence”.

KRS-One of Boogie Down Productions went on to form the Stop The Violence Movement.

All these pieces seem so prescient to the current situation in Iraq, and also the police shooting of Michael Brown in Ferguson, St Louis.

Super provocative too is how the pieces are styled in the online lookbook.

Here’s how the Reagan parka is worn.

Over the intentional cute banality of a cherry sweater.


The KRS-One T-shirt is shown under a blankly respectable mohair cardigan.


Supreme is deft with these unspoken contradictions and undercurrents.

They are just presented, and not commented on.

And are among lots of other product – firemen’s coats, corduroy Harringtons, plaid shirts, hi-vis jackets and hockey tops.

I find the collection absolutely thrilling.

You can view the whole lot here.

I wonder if the queue’s started in London?

I passed by the store yesterday afternoon, as yet no-one was on line.

I’m guessing there may be some waiting there now.

If anyone’s seen it in Soho, or is sat in the queue, message me on Twitter at @charlie_porter or on Instagram at @thecharlieporter

NEW STUFF TUESDAY: some new stuff that you can, like, buy on a Tuesday and stuff


As in it’s a Tuesday and you can buy some new stuff if you wanted.

Ohmygod it’s cold.

Like actually this is autumn cold.

As in, cold enough to wear autumn/winter clothes.

Which is lucky since they’ve been arriving in stores for oooh the last six weeks or so.

It the first time these clothes have started to make sense.

Let’s have a look at the new deliveries.

(Oh and by the way, someone told me once that some websites get paid to link to a store or brand’s products. I don’t  – these are just things I think are jolly).

First up: the website-with-the-same-surname-as-me.

Ohmygod look at this coat.


It’s by Arc’teryx Veilance.

It’s called a Patrol IS Double Layered Coat.

As you would.

It’s amazing and it does stuff.

Like keep the rain out or something.

It’s £1400, click here etcetc.

What else?

This padded goose down jacket by Gucci is gorgeous.


Its autumn/winter 14 collection was so so so good.

Of its spring/summer 15 collection, I’ve been very critical in the Financial Times.

Fashion can seem such a separatist thing, but I would actually like to wear Gucci.

And I would wear this coat.

It’d be great if it would steer back to such clothing with purpose for next autumn/winter.

The coat is £1100, click here etcetc.

What else?

Tim Coppens amazingness!


So pretty.

It’s £835, click here etcetc.

Oooh this Bottega Veneta gilet’s nice.


It’s only £440.

We’re now in a world where under £500 is called “only”.

Click here etcetc.

There’s good stuff on the website-with-the-same-surname-as-me.


Gorgeous jacquard knit sweater.


This is an actual “only”.

It’s only £255, click here etcetc.

Let’s go somewhere else.

OHMYGOD TODAY’S NEW DELIVERY on the Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby temporary pop-up online store thingy is…


Screen Shot 2014-08-19 at 10.23.03

I do believe that’s what you call “a piece”.

It’s €760, click here etcetc.


What have they got that’s nice and autumnal over at Matches which I’m sure I’m meant to call matchesfashion.com.

Ohgod this Rick Owens padded shearling collar jacket.


It’s £1,699 and is lovely, click here etcetc.

Oh and obviously this Rick Owens merino wool balaclava.


I need a new Rick balaclava – my old one is obviously totally moth-holed.

It’s £244, click here etcetc.


Screen Shot 2014-08-19 at 11.06.59



It’s got velcro closures and two pockets or something.


It’s £565 and worth every single penny, click here etcetc.

Let’s go have a butchers in Other Shop.

I mean, a Craig Green patch strip sweater, obviously.


In shock news, I already have one of these.

It’s £620, click here etcetc.

Aaaah look at this Peter Jensen sweatshirt.


It’s at a very “only” price of only £109, click here etcetc.

OMG though over at V-Files…

The best picture frame hoodie ever created in the world ever…

As in, a hoodie with a picture frame in it…

By Nasir Mazhar…


See that black rectangle?

It’s actually a picture frame sleeve thingy.

You can put whatever picture you want in it.

A picture of Kim.

A picture of Kourtney.

A picture of Khloe.

OBVIOUSLY a picture of Rob.

Both Rob then, and even better, Rob now.

A picture of Taylor Swift.

A picture of that builder in Bake Off with the pencil behind his ear.

A picture of transgender boxing promoter Kellie whatever-her-surmane-is.


I used to have a Love Hearts pencil case with a heart shaped picture frame in the centre.

It only ever was home to a photo of Dusty Springfield.

I’ve still got it somewhere.


Back to Nasir Mazhar.


It’s $640 which in pounds is very definitely “only” something or other.

Click here etcetc.

OMG the new Taylor Swift.

How much time have you spent analysing the clothes of her um fans at the end?

Too much time, obviously.

Hey! Let’s do it again!

(Obviously this is silent analysis, because analysing the clothes of worn by the um fans at the end of the Taylor Swift video is obviously not what you do on a Tuesday morning at all)

(Oh no)


That’s it for this edition of NEW STUFF TUESDAY!

Will there ever be another edition?

Who knows!


Carla Fernández is an amazing designer. Here’s her work, on show in Boston right now

Right now in Boston, the Isabel Gardner Museum has its first ever fashion show, featuring the work of the amazing Carla Fernández.

Carla is an incredible designer.

I first saw her work at her store in Mexico City when I was there earlier this year.

Carla makes garments of originality, modernity and ingenuity, using fresh cloth created by Mexican artisans.

It’s everything that I like about clothing at the moment: contemporary work of craft and skill which offers an alternative take on current notions of “luxury”.

Carla’s clothing isn’t that expensive.

The luxury comes from the pleasure of wearing the pieces themselves.

I’d hoped to meet up with Carla when I was in town, but she got super sick, and was on her way to Boston to get this show ready.

It’s super exciting that she’s being recognised by the Isabel Gardner Museum – the show’s titled The Barefoot Designer: A Passion For Radical Design And Community.

I have our CARLA FERNÁNDEZ CORRESPONDENT to thank for the following images of the show.

Our CARLA FERNÁNDEZ CORRESPONDENT is the fabulous Pablo Leon De La Barra, the Guggenheim’s curator for Latin America, who posted many of these images this morning on his Instagram, @pablodelabarra

Here’s one of the works in the show.


Hello nice lady walking round the corner!

Carla’s work often deals with drape, an ingenious use of simple shapes.

When I was in Mexico City, I bought a top similar to this for my mum.

It’s a large rectangle of gorgeous cloth with slits for the head and armholes.

It can be worn as a belted tabard like this, or turned horizontal and worn as a sleeveless jacket.

A close-up.


Another work.



It’s got that nicely awkward late 90s/turn of the millennium feel.

A close-up.


Another work.


Obviously obsessed with the headpieces.

Goes without saying.

OMG here’s Carla!


Another work.


More from the show.


Ohgod I wish I was in Boston to see it.

If you’re anywhere near Boston, go go go – the show’s on till September 1st.

Oh and here’s Carla’s own website…


We haven’t had many CORRESPONDENTS recently, have we?

Like, forever.

Maybe we should start hiring again…

Astrid Andersen is opening her first store tonight in Copenhagen. Here’s a sneak peek

Tonight in Copenhagen, Astrid Andersen is opening her first store.

I’m fairly sure she’s the first MAN alumni designer to have her own shop.

It’s in a space at the front of her studio.

Hi Astrid!


The view from inside out.


One of the rails.


I may have bought this lace T-shirt.


A hoop above the mirror for those feeling active or coordinated, preferably both.


Gorgeous sweatshirt.


A folded T-shirt.


Phone covers.


Out the back, a pinboard with all of Astrid’s lookbooks so far.


Astrid is opening the store on Saturdays.

On the rails are T’s and sweatshirts, and then the pieces that stores might not have ordered.

It’s the benefit of having your own space – you can curate it to your own taste.

And if she sells out of a piece, they can make a new one up in the studio behind.

Her furs samples are there, to be bought made-to-order.

It’s interesting opening your own retail space.

She has no idea is customers will come.

But because it’s her own studio anyway, and it’s only open one day a week, there’s no major overheads.

She’d like it if it became a place people came for a chat.

And kids who can’t afford it yet can come and get excited about being around the pieces.

She says she’s had so many requests on Instagram from kids who want to come and work in the store.

It’s so exciting, and so different from most of what else I saw in Copenhagen, which was mostly derivative, pleased with itself, lazy and without connection to a wider world.


I think it benefits Astrid’s business, her having a studio in Copenhagen.

Not least because the rents are so cheap.

She’s at a remove from all the industry stuff and kowtowing you have to do in London as a designer.

Leaving her able to get on with her work.

And also giving her label an international feel.

Maybe it’s to her benefit also that Copenhagen Fashion Week seems to pay her no respect.

Because she can keep away from all of its machinations.

As with all designers of note, she is able to find her own path.

After we’d chatted for a while, Astrid headed off to judge Designers Nest, a non-profit contest for Nordic design schools.

I went along to the show itself.

Interestingly, none of the selected five finalists came from a Danish design school.

The winner was clear and obvious even before it was announced: Andreas Eklöf from the Swedish School of Textiles.

Here’s the first of his three looks.


He is a designer with the confidence to go off kilter.

But to do so with exceptional make.

Here’s two of his models afterwards – Astrid said the green coat on the left is amazingly well made.


Here’s the back of his other look, which I loved.


It was great to see some new design work in Copenhagen.

Even if none of it originated from the city.

It’s a place that could benefit from a non-profit nurturing and mentoring scheme of its own.

Because out of those kids who want to come and work in Astrid’s store, or the interns that help her out, you know some will be having their own ideas.

And those ideas need to be allowed to develop.

If you’re in Copenhagen, she’s having her store opening this evening, from 5-8.

The address is Jagtvej 19.

So exciting!

Bye, Astrid!


At the Malcolm McLaren show in Copenhagen, the hang of the garments is exceptional

I’m in Copenhagen, where a show has just opened looking at Malcolm McLaren’s influence on fashion.

The hang of garments in the show is exceptional.

The pieces are held flat between sheets of perspex, defining their shape and allowing the pieces to be seen clearly from both sides.

Here’s a God Save The Queen muslin top from Seditionaries Personal Collection, and Malcolm’s own bondage trousers.


The back.


The zips at the ankle.


You can just see the label.


Pieces from the Witches collection featuring a Keith Haring jacquard.


That sweater.


The top of the skirt.


The bottom.


The back of the sweater.


I found this piece – which I think is a toga dress from Nostalgia Of Mud – to be captivating.


The back.


I’m guessing this is a Pirate dress worn by Anabella Lewin, from Worlds End.


Elsewhere pieces are in cabinets.

I’ve never seen these Let It Rock ties before.

They could be present day Prada.

They’re from 1974.




And another.


I love this price list poster for Let It Rock.

Look at the opening hours: 9am-11pm!






Of course the shame of this is that their work isn’t celebrated together, as it should be.

Here, each garment is listed as the work of “Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood”.

I’m sure Westwood would list it the other way round.

It’d be good for everyone to move on from tit-for-tat.

Spike Sex shoes from Kim Jones’s collection.


Witches multi-tongued shoes.


Malcolm’s own sheepskin coat, I think this is from Nostalgia Of Mud.


A Witches dishcloth top from 1983.


The letter of dissolution from Malcolm to Vivienne, from 1984.


The show is only on two more days at CIFF in Copenhagen.

More Malcolm, please.

An exhibition about Malcolm McLaren opens next week in Copenhagen. Here’s a preview

Next week in Copenhagen, there’s an exhibition about Malcolm McLaren.

It’s titled Let It Rock, the first show to look at Malcolm’s impact on fashion.

On display will be clothing, documentation, notebooks, flyers, invitations, posters and other ephemera, alongside showings of rare films and videos.

The show is being curated by Malcolm’s partner, Young Kim, alongside Paul Gorman.

I’m off to Copenhagen next week for CIFF – Copenhagen International Fashion Fair – so will report on it exhaustively then.

Yesterday I spoke with Young about the show.

Her intention is to ensure that Malcolm’s creative contribution to the radical fashion of the 1970s and 80s is recognised.

“I wanted the show to be about the clothes and the shops,” says Young. “People think that because she [Vivienne Westwood] stayed in fashion and he didn’t, people think he didn’t have anything to do with the clothes and the shop, that he was just the shop manager.”

Here’s a photocopy of a page from his notebook, detailing the design for the bespoke Seditionaries Personal Collection label.


(I’m taking these images, with his permission, from Paul Gorman‘s site).

The label itself.


“People assume he didn’t have creative input because he often collaborated,” says Young. “He was also a collagist. The clothes are collages, his last art work was collages, the songs were collages.”

Here’s an example of the collaging at work, evidence of process taken from Gorman’s site.

In the background of this photo of Malcolm, taken by David Parkinson, is a poster for the movie Vive It Rock.


Here’s a Little Richard record sleeve.


Cut them up, flip the image of Little Richard, and you get, from 1972:


It also appeared with Situationist slogans as a Seditionaries T-shirt from 1979.


“You’ll be able to see the creative process,” says Young. “He came across an old record that had a Peruvian print on it.”


“He took the print and used it for Nostalgia Of Mud.”


Here’s the Nostalgia Of Mud showcard.


Another example of the creative process, again taken from Gorman’s site: Malcolm’s copy of a book titled Indian Rawhide, from 1975.


Inside is this print of a design for a painted hide.


A dress from the Savages collection.


Another design for a hide.


A top from the Savages collection in 1982.


“The bra from Buffalo Gals came from his travels in Africa,” says Young. “He saw women who’d received western clothing and didn’t understand what to do with the bras, so they wore them on top. I went to see Kim Jones [aside from being an amazing designer, Kim is also a great collector] and he has some of those bras. They’re incredible, so well made, with a piece of suede in the middle. Every last detail was thought about.”

Here’s a poster for Buffalo Gals.

photo 1

The poster for Soweto.

photo 2

I’m very much looking forward to seeing the exhibition.

You may notice that I’m being particular about the language that I use, and what I say.

It’s a raw subject. As soon as it’s brought up, nerves are touched.

It seems to me the key word here is collaboration – that Westwood and McLaren were working together in a very idiosyncratic way.

In an era before logging, noting, categorisation and archiving became the norm. Before fashion houses insisted that clothes be credited as “Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci”, as many brands do today.

Young has to spend much time making sure Malcolm is credited for work he is known to have done or collaborated on.

It sounds a laborious, stressful and often upsetting process.

I hope through the exhibition, and through future shows, she gets to celebrate Malcolm and his work.

The show is only open in Copenhagen for four days.

Personally, I think an exhibition of Malcolm’s work should be somewhere like the Design Museum.

Anyway, more to come next week.

If luxury falters, what’s next? Good clothes. Lower prices. It’s exciting

Yesterday morning, I walked through Haggerston Park on the way to Columbia Road for the flower market.

Near the gates with the Hackney Road was this bag.


It’s a tricky time for luxury right now.

Much seems to be shifting.

It was on my mind throughout the recent menswear shows, and something that I wrote about in the FT for my Paris round-up.

I’ve always thought that fashion and luxury were two different fields which often inhabit the same space.

This has been particularly the case since John Galliano went to Givenchy in 1995, followed by Alexander McQueen.

And the late 90s logo obsession, led in part by Jeremy Scott’s radical logo blitz in his collections at the turn of the millennium.

Fashion and luxury have been hovering around the same space for so long, it’s forgivable to mistake them for being the same thing.

They’re not.

I’ve always been curious to see if the two would ever separate out in my lifetime.

Or at least move slightly apart so there is more distinction between the two.

It seems to be happening now, if only temporarily.

Because while fashion continues onwards (as it always does – fashion is about forward movement), luxury is faltering.

Last week’s news about profits at LVMH seemed to point to wider societal changes affecting the luxury goods industry.

It’s more than just the quality and relevance (or not) of the brand’s work, it’s about how and why (or not) the luxury customer shops.

This week, Kering Group will announce its latest figures.

They may be positive.

No-one is expecting them to be so.

[UPDATE!: Kering's results actually beat expectations, with sales climbing 4% but first half recurring operating income falling 3.9%. Gucci's sales were down 2.4%, but Saint Laurent was up 29%.]

It’s interesting to me that while this is happening to look at clothing away from what’s understood as luxury, with purposefully lower price points.

Craig Green is at the forefront of this.

I have gained so much pleasure from wearing pieces from his autumn/winter collection.

Like this denim jacket.


It feels a luxury in its own right to wear a garment as highly realised as this.

For the work that goes into his pieces, the prices are unbelievably low.

Each piece has been handpainted and baked three times to create the layers of pattern and colour.

A T-shirt from the same collection costs £270 at Other Shop.

I’m not meant to be shopping at the moment, so obviously last week I bought a fake fur little jacket by Gosha Rubchinskiy.


I can’t wait to wear it.

It was £350 at Dover Street Market.

A price that, in the wider industry context, is low.

There are other designers keeping prices purposefully low.

Nasir Mazhar.

Aaron Tubb of Bazar 14.

It’s obviously the sort of thing that I like, but maybe not for all.

Looking around online this morning, I came across Story MFG.

They’re new to me, and make clothing to order.

Like this Sundae Jacket (Two Scoop).


Isn’t it gorgeous?

The jacket is £249.

Here is their Time Jacket – Hank 2.


It’s £210, and will be produced in limited numbers.

Nowadays, I have a particular relationship with the luxury industry.

I engage with it for two intense periods a year, at the menswear shows in January and June, for my critics role at the Financial Times.

Then, I step away.

I try not to take part in any of the appointments, press days or events that occupy fashion editors day to day.

And I never post here what counts for fashion news – i.e. a brand’s new bag in a new colour or something.

I find this helps clarify my thinking enormously.

And anyway, there’s so much more interesting other stuff that goes on.

Often with an individual’s hand.

Maybe I’ll spend the next few months trying to find as much nice stuff that’s happening with clothing away from what is considered luxury.