The Design Museum is opening a show on extraordinary architect Louis Kahn. A sneak peek

The Design Museum is about to open an exhibition about the architect Louis Kahn.

I’m obsessed with his work.

Here are some of the models featured.

His unrealised City Tower for his hometown, Philadelphia.

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The base of the tower.

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Its heart.

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Kahn himself with a model of the tower.

That’s Kahn on the right.

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The Yale Center for British Art.

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Another view.

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The Philips Exeter Academy Library.

Note the circle.

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One of the buildings for the Salk Institute in La Jolla, California.

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Kahn’s unrealised model for the Hurva synagogue, Jerusalem.

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Model for the Fine Arts Center in Fort Wayne.

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Model for the Jewish Community Center in the Ewing Township, New Jersey.

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Sher-e-Bangla Nagar in Bangladesh, the seat of government and said to be Kahn’s greatest work.

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The show is compact.

I found the most affecting work to be the simplest.

It shone through the clutter.

A detail model for Shar-e-Bangla Nagar.

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Another. Apologies for the blurriness.

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On the opposite wall, I found two small photos of work by Gordon Matta-Clark.

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Such an enticing connection, but no more is made of it.

I wish there had been something – anything – on the power of the circle in his work.

It seems so elemental to the story.

To me, most affecting of all was the model of a house for Norman and Doris Fisher, built from 1960-67 in Hatboro, Pennsylvania.

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The show makes no mention of Kahn’s personal fallibility.

His fallibility which is at the centre of the documentary My Architect, made by his illegitimate son Nathaniel in 2003.

Kahn died when Nathaniel was 11. Kahn apparently spent one day a week with Nathaniel, and had children with another woman other than his wife.

In the film, Nathaniel tries to get to know his father through his work.

The result is revelatory.

No such personal depth here.

Indeed, the Design Museum show opens with an image of Kahn’s wife, Esther.

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It almost as if it is saying, we’re above such unpleasantries as personal tittle tattle. Here’s his wife. Forget the rest of the story.

No mention at the end (or at least none that I could see) that he died penniless.

He owed hundreds of thousands of dollars, even though he was then, and remains today, one of the 20th century’s most respected architects.

After I’d seen the show, I sat for a whole outside the Design Museum, looking out at the new London skyline.

Norman Foster’s unremarkable Cheesegrater.

Rafael Viñoly’s hated Walkie Talkie.

So much architecture built for profit rather than public good, for companies to take space inside in order to create more profit.

With Kahn, the personal is important because it delineates his work.

No matter how messy that personal life may be.

The restless man inadequate as a father because of his urge to travel, and to learn from elsewhere.

Here’s his suitcase, from his many travels.

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The lauded architect who died bankrupt because his practice sought out community good rather than exploitation of capital.

By seeming to elevate itself above the personal, it ends up giving a partial view of his work.

The exhibition originated at the Vitra Design Museum, which was responsible for creating many of the models on show.

Perhaps that’s why there’s such a particular emphasis on model rather than research into the man himself.

But do go see the show.

It opens 9 July, is on until 12 October, click here etcetc.

Before you do, watch My Architect again.

Just googled it to find the trailer, and it turns out the whole film is on Vimeo.

No idea if this is legal or not, but it’s been online for four years, so…

Craig Green. Christopher Shannon. Liam Hodges. More close-ups with SS15 amazingness!

OK let’s process some of this menswear stuff that’s been seen over the past twelve million years, or however long the spring and summer 2015 shows went on for.

(Really it’s just 15 days solid, but still).

Let’s cross over live to the the London Showrooms approximately nine days ago to have a look at some fashions.

(London Showrooms is the BFC-run thingy in Paris where young London designers get to sell their wares to buyers)

(Because even though buyers come to LC:M, they only really start buying for stores once they get to Paris)

(Don’t ask me why)

(Anyway)

CRAIG GREEN!

Craig had said that each of his extraordinary outfits, which on the catwalk were shown with the sides tied, would also be available with legs and sleeves sealed.

Here’s the jacket I will be wearing approximately every single day next spring.

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What’s extraordinary about Craig’s work is how he makes something revolutionary from simple cloths and shapes.

This is one of the most important pieces of the season, and is in a simple cotton.

It’s price will be nothing special.

Same with this denim jacket, which I’ll be wearing on the days I’m not wearing the one above.

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After his show, Craig talked about it being a silent protest.

I think the protest was about unnecessary consumption and alleged luxury.

It’s something that stayed with me all season.

A few days later, Mrs Prada also spoke of protest about her own collection.

It was an interesting parallel.

The most expensive pieces in Craig’s collection were the knitwear – I can’t remember why but there’s something special about them and they’re amazing – and these quilted pieces.

For good reason.

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Upstairs, Christopher Shannon had some amazing knit pieces that hadn’t arrived in time for the show.

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SO GOOD.

Another.

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AMAZING.

Here’s that zip-up which I’ll be wearing every single day for the entire history of forever.

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Those sweatshirts, where the logos and lettering are cut and pasted by hand.

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Another.

OMG have only just seen the heart!

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Let’s pop downstairs to the kiddies room.

THE MAN DESIGNERS!

Ohmygod I loved the patches by Liam Hodges.

Sometimes they were actual patches, often they were woven into a jacquard.

These are shorts.

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Love this baseball top.

The collection was about spooky scouting, hence the dib dib dib hand signal.

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Next to Liam was lovely Nicomede Talavera.

His pleats were super amazing.

Especially this top – I liked it when it was super simple.

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But OMG though the CUFFS…

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And then the amazing Bobby Abley.

I’ve never had more people outside of the fashions ask me about a garment than Bobby’s top featuring the face of Ursula from The Little Mermaid.

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Back upstairs.

OMG THE DENIM AT E.TAUTZ!

I thought E. Tautz was one of the shows of the entire season.

I love it when a brand realises what it can be, and presents such a full and desirable idea of itself.

So much was good, but my focus is on:

a) The denim top.

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b) THE DENIM SHORTS

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Amazing.

Oooh let’s pop next door.

MORE DENIM AT JAMES LONG.

Boxers topped denim trackpants.

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And shorts…

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Aaah and let’s say hello to Sibling.

Hello Sibling!

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When I visited them (which is obviously live right now this second and not nine days ago), they’d just sold one of their finale pompom thingies.

Sibling: whatever they show, they can make.

Here’s their skull-and-pom-pom tufty tank.

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AMAZING!

And now live this second I have to um go and do something else in um Paris or something and am not at all sat in my um flat off the Hackney Road.

Live action scenes!

Aaaah isn’t it always nice to hear a bit of Get Yo Ass Off My Grass?

Ohgod I’m so naive.

I just realised.

This probably isn’t about some territorial dispute about a lawn.

Eeeek…

The amazing Judith Bernstein has a show opening at Studio Voltaire tonight. Here’s a sneak peek

Judith Bernstein’s first ever solo show in the UK opens at Studio Voltaire tonight.

She’s 71 and from New York, but has been living in London for the past month, creating the works from scratch.

The show is called Rising.

Here’s the main piece.

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Amazing.

It’s actually two canvases, joined vertically.

Judith believes in women being at the centre of the universe, right from the Big Bang.

She starts sketching in fluorescent paint, then continues to work in oils.

On either side of the space are new versions of her screw series from 1973.

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Do you want to see all five?

Here we go.

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Screw has many connotations.

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Aside from the obvious, Screw also connects to the Vietnam war, still on when she first created the series.

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And how men were screwing up the world.

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In the smaller room is another painting under fluorescent light.

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Ohmygod.

Some close ups.

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Hi.

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That eye.

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I love the fluorescence.

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Judith’s also done an edition to raise funds for Studio Voltaire.

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AMAZING.

The opening’s tonight (as in tonight as in Friday the 4th of July) from 6.30 or something, click here etcetcetc

The old hospital on Hackney Road is becoming flats. The fashions of its dream residents

A couple of minutes from my flat is the old Queen Elizabeth Hospital for Children on the Hackney Road.

It’s been derelict as long as I’ve lived round here.

Someone once told me they filmed bits of Holby City there.

Now it’s being turned into luxury flats.

Recently, a hoarding has gone up featuring images of their dream residents.

So we can get to know our prospective neighbours.

This is what the new Eastender looks like.

She loves a leaf earring and an angled bangle, but her favourite accessory is a salmon and cream cheese bagel, always held two inches from her lips.

Never, ever, EVER eaten.

Gowns worn every hour, obviously.

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Her favourite haunt with her special friend is that old East End caff, E. Pellicci.

It’s famous for its bubble.

But they only go and stand outside it.

And they only go and stand outside it when it’s closed, so they don’t have to actually eat any bubble or smell any bubble or speak to anyone who might have ever eaten any bubble.

Notice his two-tone shirt.

And her sleeve, perfect for dragging through bubble if she were ever to actually be in front of any bubble.

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Of course she rides a bike.

In a gown.

Strapless is always the chosen cut for when you’re trying to accelerate hard past the No55.

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If she sees someone over a size 12, she immediately turns her back, bagel still two inches from her lips.

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When will they just shut down this dirty pub and turn it into a wine bar?

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The dream interior of our dream residents.

Notice the variety of textures and prints of their scattercushions, including, of course, one printed with a skull.

Look close and you’ll see the floor lamp up the corner has dramatic tassels.

And of course this couple would never put manky bikes and old toddler gyms out on their balcony.

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Ah, Hackney Road!

Marvin Gaye Chetwynd has nearly finished her next film. Come on! Help finance it!

The unfeasibly incredible Marvin Gaye Chetwynd has nearly finished her next film.

It’s a Studio Voltaire commission, which has already had funding from the Arts Council and the Australia Council of the Arts.

And now she just needs a little bit of help to get it finished.

The new film is called Hermitos Children 2, a follow-up to the original that you can watch here.

Studio Voltaire have launched a Kickstarter to raise the final £5000.

In order to finish the work, so it can premier at Studio Voltaire this October.

Marvin Gaye has made a film about the work.

OMG DONATE!

Click here to get to the Kickstarter page thingy.

There are different levels of reward, including a starring role in the film itself.

Aaaah Marvin Gaye Chetwynd.

SO AMAZING.

She was nominated for the Turner Prize the other year.

Here’s a thing I wrote about it at the time.

And who doesn’t love a bug’s ass?

Here’s me crawling into one of her bug’s asses at her New Museum show the other year.

At least, I think it’s an ass.

It’s an ass, right?

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DONATE DONATE DONATE!

Fanatically, obsessively up close with the amazingness at Comme, Junya, Comme SHIRT, Gosha

Each menswear shows, I always make sure I go visit the Comme des Garçons showroom for a good root around.

This season was one of those times that makes you feel it’s an honour to be able to see these shows.

Here’s the work of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.

One of the pieces I want most out of the whole season.

The outer layer.

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Obsessed.

Comme was fascinating to me.

It was clear from the first look that it was anti-war, its aim to ridicule military through clothing.

A few days before it, I’d written about the use of naval and military at the Gucci for the FT.

There it had been literal, with the garment making no connection to an actual Gucci customer.

As I wrote it, I wondered: how will I feel if other designers use military?

At Comme, it was there with purpose and power.

It was about the futility of war, and the futility of messages that clothing sends out.

Even the futility of clothing itself.

On the catwalk there were many interventions in the cloth, with bands of leopard print and such cut and disrupting the formality of the garment.

They also had ones untouched.

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Another.

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One more.

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Then there were the pieces daubed with slogans.

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Another.

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The back of another.

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The slogans on a T-shirt.

“Now I don’t know where we are” is apparently from a WWI poem.

I’m trying to find which one – I’ll update.

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What it says on its side.

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Those shoes.

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Another view.

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So good.

Hey lets go across the courtyard and upstairs to look at Junya.

In the latest of a series of highly professional photographs taken on my iPhone, here’s a pair of jeans in collaboration with Levi’s, made from martial arts cloth.

That in real life are way more blue than they look here.

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A close-up of that cloth.

Which looks way more blue in real life etcetc.

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A photo of me on day 15 of the menswear trek looking full of the joys of spring.

I’m wearing my favourite piece from the collection, and boy don’t I look happy about it.

The letters spell out “MAN” btw.

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Let’s move on.

The collection was all about Japanese traditions.

Here’s a patchwork jacket that uses traditional stitching.

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This jacket is made from a fabric used for Japanese village uniforms – when there’s a festival, everyone in the village wears jackets from this cloth with the village symbol on the back.

Here’s the front.

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The symbol on the back.

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I loved this print.

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Close up with a woven.

Confession: I can’t remember what garment this was from.

Just thought the cloth was lush.

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OK let’s go downstairs to Comme des Garçons SHIRT.

One of the shirts.

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AMAZING!

Close up with the Scooby Doo writing.

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Ohgod shall we just watch Scooby Doo?

AARRGHGHH THERE’S NO SCOOBY DOO ON YOUTUBE!!!

Boring.

Anyway.

Another shirt.

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I love how this next one goes to a point at the hem.

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So gorge.

Another.

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Ohgod I haven’t got long.

Let’s go through to Gosha.

WAIT THOUGH.

What’s that sweater in Comme SHIRT?

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OHGOD.

Close up with that trim.

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Right.

GOSHA.

Guess what this T says?

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The collection was inspired by thoughts of Arktida, an old island that became part of the Russian landmass before anything became anything.

That logo says Arktida in Cyrillic.

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Another that says Arktida.

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The colours at Gosha were so lush.

Loved this eggy yellow.

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TRACKPANTS.

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Here’s the back of one of those amazing jackets I posted about back three million years ago when the Paris shows started.

With squares of different cloth that are like some silent semaphore.

Obviously the most amazingly professional photo too.

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DENIM.

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DENIM SHORTS.

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OK we’ve got to go.

SO AMAZING.

Oh look.

I’ve found the Scooby Doo Where Are You theme song.

Will that do?

It’ll have to.

Raf Simons was about personal memory, gratitude, sci-fi and horror. Some close-ups

On Sunday in Paris, I went to Raf Simons showroom for a close-up look at his spring/summer 2015 collection.

Here’s the key shirt.

The mannequin looks a bit, um, female.

But it’s for men.

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The logo is like a new version of the one for the new Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby collection.

The photo is of Raf wearing a T-shirt made by Olivier Rizzo – in his style.com review, Tim Blanks recounts the moment Raf gave it back to Olivier backstage.

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From it you get the sense of the whole collection.

A continuation of the work started with Ruby, along with personal memory and gratitude.

Some of it explained, some left to be opaque.

The result is powerful.

Raf’s father was in the military, which led to the sailor’s flaps on the backs of jackets.

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The explosion is of an oil rig.

The astronaut is to stand for isolation.

Raf loves sci-fi, hence the spaceship.

Interesting that the knits are a continuation of those from Simons/Ruby.

The back of another jacket.

The Japanese script reads “Raf Simons”.

It is to thank Japanese retailers and customers for supporting him in his early years.

As well as sci-fi, Raf also loves horror.

The shark fin: from Jaws.

The image of Mount Fuji is by Hokusai.

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Many of the pieces include photos of his parents.

Here’s an image of his father with a gun, his mother by his side.

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On the back of many of the garments are images of rollercoasters.

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That rollercoaster in close-up.

Beneath it is an oil-rig, to represent environmental destruction.

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A sweet photo of his parents on the front of a white shirt.

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OHMYGOD JUMPSUIT.

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A handy front zip.

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An amazing shark fin T-shirt, with the words NO NO.

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Another image of his parents on the back of a jacket flap.

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Close-up.

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A print made up from tiny planes.

Apologies for the um blur.

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A vest beaded in India with a Hokusai image.

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Another Hokusai vest.

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Close-up with the beading.

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This image is of Raf backstage at his Black Palms collection from spring/summer 1998.

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A video of Black Palms.

The illustrations that look Japanese were actually designed fresh at Raf’s studio in Antwerp.

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A spooky rubber ring.

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Here’s the back of a sleeveless jacket.

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The front, FYI.

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I love this combination of a rollercoaster with a scene from Jaws.

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Close-up.

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Accessories.

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The light-up trainers are in collaboration with Adidas.

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There’s also these Stan Smiths.

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One tongue.

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The other.

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Amazing.

Gosha Rubchinskiy just showed for the first time in Paris. It was amazing. Here’s some looks

Gosha Rubchinskiy just showed for the first time in Paris.

He’s had shows in Moscow a few years ago, but this was his debut on the international show schedule.

It was amazing – a concise, tight, involved display of his sub-currents and codes.

Here are some of my amazingly professional images.

Trackpants were cut lean to the body and worn high.

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Squares were a repeat throughout.

Here’s a patchworked shirt.

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Then jackets and coats came out, with a grid of squares at the back.

Sometimes the squares small and near the hem, other times taking over the whole back.

The squares of fake fur, camo and plastics.

They were like some unspoken semaphore.

You can just make them out in this pic.

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The colours were lush, especially this eggy yellow.

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The denim pieces were ace – I didn’t get a shot of the denim cargo pants, but here’s a sleeveless jacket.

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OMG monster!

Or, like, an alien.

One of the two.

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The trackpants have Gosha’s name in Russian down the right leg below the knee.

You can see the squares on the back too.

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Afterwards, Gosha was beaming.

Someone asked if they could interview him.

All he could say was, “Hello from Russia!”, and then he ran backstage.

Here are some close-ups.

Many of the garments had a triangular symbol on them.

It reads “Arctida” in Cyrillic, which is apparently an island which used to be part of Russia, but which no longer exists.

It was the theme of the collection.

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Those amazing squares.

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An illustration – I’ll find out from Gosha who did it for him – he always collaborates with young Russian artists.

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A totally lush pink top.

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And… That monster. Or alien.

Whichever, it’s AMAZING.

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SO GOOD.

I’ll have more to say about it on FT.com tomorrow, but wanted to post these here now.

But what a relief to come from Milan to Paris, a city that allows young people from around the world to come and express themselves.

For everything menswear spring/summer 2015, here’s where to go…

Hey so menswear’s got going for spring/summer 2015.

It’s the London Collections right now.

Then we go to Milan, then Paris.

For immediate stuff from me, head over to Instagram – I’m on @thecharlieporter

Then for daily stuff, I’m posting at FT.com - easiest way to find the pieces is by putting my name in the search box.

OMG Werk by Radio Slave!!!!