Last night, Saint Laurent held a brief re-see at the Grand Palais, where it sells its collections to stores after the show.
The collection was on the rails, in order of look.
And then beyond it, all the stuff that will go instore.
There were no photos allowed, but I was given permission to nick two pencils.
Here’s two Saint Laurent pencils.
I find the consensus reaction to Saint Laurent to be astounding.
It’s as if they think the catwalk collection (and how they’re treated at the catwalk show) is everything.
If you’re building a brand from scratch, there needs to be so much other stuff.
We’ll have a proper first look at the spring/summer stuff when Dover Street Market opens its new Saint Laurent space next week.
But in the showroom last night, the stuff for autumn/winter is super impressive.
It’s the sort of stuff that was actually on the catwalk, but which some people couldn’t spot for the ripped jeans and attitude pieces.
Take this look (and I’ll put the pictures upside down as per usual, so you look at the clothes themselves, not the image).
(all pix from catwalking.com)
So yes: super skinny ripped jeans.
Yes, sequined Fair Isle.
But then look at that lovely, simple, slick duffel.
Apparently Hedi dressed each look by combining a classic Saint Laurent piece with something grunge or the like.
And so every look had something classic mixed with something other.
In the showroom, I loved this plaid zip-up.
There’s so much jolliness in the non-catwalk stuff that’ll be in store.
I wish I could take photos of it for you.
The thick knit sweaters are all done with raglan sleeves, so they have a sense of movement about them.
The duffel coats are so good, with SAINT LAURENT branded small on each toggle.
The tailoring is neat and exact.
The T-shirts look amazing.
The bags are amazing, especially a big clean leather tote.
The jewellery is amazing.
The trainers look AMAZING – white, with a flash of colour.
And there are some trainer rollerskates.
The website-with-the-same-surname-as-me has taken delivery of its pre-collection stuff.
They’ve got the jeans, which I’m desperate to try on.
Can you see that chain at the back? A detail that’ll be going throughout the collection.
I’ve already written about the Saint Laurent show once for the Financial Times – click here to read it etcetcetc
I’m writing about the show again in Saturday’s round-up. In a way, I wish everyone could see right now the stuff that’s going to be in stores, rather than just the uncompromise of the catwalk.
I want people to see the richness of the proposition, and that it’s serious.
Give it time.